Cinnamon Beach on St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands is one of the most beautiful beaches you’ll ever encounter

After anchoring just off Guadeloupe on Christmas Day we had two more stops on our cruise. First up was St. Barts, a decidedly upscale island we visited just a year ago. We went ashore without any clear agenda but after walking through the main town with every elite designer store you can imagine we decided to to go lunch at a restaurant that we’d loved last year. It was a significant hike up a pretty steep hill but once we got there we remembered why we liked it so much. The food was really good – it is, after all, a French island – but the views are just spectacular. We got there an hour before they opened for lunch so we just sat there with a glass of wine and a book and the view and chilled. Until they started serving food and that made it even better.

Lunch at Beefbar in St. Barts was the exact same table as a year ago, with pretty much exactly the same view

The final stop then was St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands. We went ashore thinking we’d probably go to a beach, though there was a chance maybe we’d find something charming in the town. Not so much charm so we took a local taxi out to Cinnamon Beach. It was a stunningly beautiful beach but the services available were more limited than we like. You could rent chairs but they weren’t very comfortable, the restaurant was mostly just junk food, and it was all way more crowded than we’re used to. So we spent a couple hours on the beach in the shade and then headed back to the ship for lunch.

More of Cinnamon Beach. Beautiful but very limited services available.

Now, then, the big question is whether we’ve become cruise people. And the answer is decidedly no. The shipboard experience was just about perfect. Great spaces, great food, great service, good entertainment in the evenings, good drinks, very comfortable room, a lot of opportunities to meet and socialize with fellow passengers. The onboard experience was everything I could have hoped for.

The restaurants available included a great sushi bar. And while normally we avoid the carbs in rice sometimes it’s worth splurging. This splurge was definitely worth it.

Once ashore, though, we just don’t enjoy having a few hours to “explore,” maybe in an organized tour or maybe on your own, before it’s time to jump back onto the ship. If we’re going to the beach there are way better options than what’s available for a day pass in a big crowd of people; we just never had a particularly good beach experience in any of our stops. And if we’re going to a city – The Ritz does a lot of tours in the Mediterranean – we want more time to explore the city. In other words I loved everything onboard and didn’t care for pretty much anything ashore except for one good lunch.

Thus the question is answered. We’re not cruise people.

The harbor in St. Barts

Can you tell it’s a Christmas cruise?

Captain Keith gave us a tour of the bridge. Fifty years ago I spent a lot of time on the bridge when I was on a ship in the navy, but that was a World War II-vintage ship. This bridge was very different!

A lot of the entertainment onboard was when we would be eating (we eat late…) but some of what was playing when we were around was pretty good!

Some of the bartenders hamming it up, with our new friend Delila joining them on the end

Another great dish. The food was universally great, without a buffet line to be seen.

The moonrise over the Caribbean. Long ago I learned to love being out at sea at night.

The night I ran into some show girls

And finally no, this isn’t the Caribbean. This was the view from our dining room when we returned to New York. This isn’t exactly awful either.

The harbor in Soufrière, St. Lucia on Christmas Eve

I saw this bizarre looking boat after we left Virgin Gorda and did some Googling. It’s Black Pearl, the largest sailing yacht in the world, owned by some Russian billionaire.

A Christmas Eve toast from Jim

We are not normally “cruise people,” but we decided to take a Christmas break this year on a week-long Caribbean cruise. How did that come about? To begin with, the Internet marketing gods determined that I was a good target for ads from the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. Clicking on one of those ads certainly didn’t help matters, so they kept coming, and I found myself intrigued by the product.

This is a cruise line targeting a very different audience from other lines. The “yacht” holds hundreds rather than thousands of people, and it feels like a luxurious hotel — one that happens to be on the water. It is like being at a really nice resort. The food is great, the service is top-notch, and the room is ultra-comfortable. We’ve been meeting lots of interesting people, and they all seem to be having a great time. Many profess to also be “non-cruise people.” And some are downright addicted to this company.

One of the reasons we don’t normally do cruises is that we are travelers who want to do justice to the places we visit. We’re not normally content to drop into a place for half a day. We want to stay in places, get to know them, meet local people, enjoy the cuisine. But these Caribbean islands are places we’ve already been to or wouldn’t likely get to otherwise. So we’re pretty happy to enjoy the “resort” and pop off to a nice beach each day.

Our cruise was launched from San Juan, Puerto Rico, where we spent a couple days before boarding the yacht Ilma. So far we’ve made stops in Virgin Gorda (British Virgin Islands), Antigua (Antigua and Barbuda), and St. Lucia. Today we are anchored in Guadeloupe for Christmas. Our next two stops are in St. Barthélemy and St. John (U.S. Virgin Islands). Then back to Puerto Rico to catch a flight home. Meanwhile, Merry Christmas!

We spent a couple days in San Juan, Puerto Rico before boarding the cruise

Jim was on the beach in San Juan when storm clouds moved in out of nowhere. I was at the gym and was shocked to look out the window and see torrential rainfall…

…and minutes later it was all back to beautiful sunshine

Pool time aboard Ilma

The Baths in Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands

Swimming in The Baths

Climbing through the caves of Virgin Gorda

The spot in the caves known as The Cathedral

In The Cathedral

The stunning Dickenson Bay Beach in Antigua

A tiki bar off the beach at Dickenson Bay

Our “yacht” Ilma anchored in the harbor in St. Lucia

Some beach time in St. Lucia

We spent Christmas Day anchored near the lovely Îles des Saintes in Guadeloupe

Estelle Manor in Oxfordshire

For our last stop on our UK summer adventure, we took a taxi just a half hour from Oxford to stay at Estelle Manor, an imposing manorial hotel in Oxfordshire and a destination unto itself.

When I booked hotels for this trip I chose Estelle Manor based on a stellar rating in the UK newspaper The Telegraph, whose reviews I use a lot for trip planning around the world. In fact this is one of just two hotels in the UK to be awarded a perfect 10 by that paper. So for our final stop I decided to splurge on a nice suite here.

Strangely I must not have cross-checked TripAdvisor reviews at that time, which I virtually always do. (I research hotels a lot and like to process lots of opinions.) A few weeks ago I did pay a visit to TripAdvisor, and the reviews of Estelle Manor were horrible. So many reviews trashed the place, their sleazy business practices, the chaotic check-in, the dirty rooms, the bad food, and the terrible service. One reviewer went on and on about how disgusting and filthy the gym was.

How could the Telegraph assessment be so wildly different from everyone else’s opinion? I dreaded ending our trip at this expensive, crappy place. And my reservation was non-refundable. How did I screw this up so badly?

We arrived and approached the check-in process with dread. But it wasn’t as chaotic as a lot of reviewers said. In fact, Svetlana was super gracious and informed us that they’d upgraded us to the best suite in the hotel. The room was truly spectacular. The restaurants — one British/French, one Chinese, one Japanese — were incredible. The public spaces were stunning, buzzy, and stylish. The service was perfection. And the gym was one of the best hotel gyms we’d ever encountered.

What on earth happened? The best I can guess is that somebody (A competitor? A disgruntled customer or employee?) orchestrated an on-line attack on this place. Cuz it’s one of the best hotels we’ve ever been to. Worth a splurge. A perfect finale for our UK summer.

One of the buzzy, beautiful lounges at Estelle Manor

Our incredible room at Estelle Manor

Sunday roast

Beautiful sashimi at the Japanese restaurant

We did tear ourselves away from Estelle Manor for a morning visit to Blenheim Palace, the home of the Dukes of Marlborough and the birthplace of Winston Churchill. I was there in 1992 with my parents and fondly remember having a great tour. Sometimes great memories can’t be relived. This time Blenheim had a lot of disruptive renovation going on. And It was very crowded, in no small part because a huge auto show was taking place on the grounds. Less than perfect, but still kind of an amazing place.

Blenheim Palace, possibly the most audacious home in Britain

Winston Churchill was a man of many talents. This is the room where he was born, decorated with his own paintings.

Exploring the gardens of Blenheim

Britain’s biggest auto show was also taking place at Blenheim

There were thousands of fancy cars here

Winston Churchill himself!

So now we head home. We booked this trip to escape the heat and humidity of a New York summer, and we did so quite successfully. The temperatures rarely exceeded 70°F (21°C). We didn’t get any beach weather, but we didn’t bake either. We had plenty of mist and gloom, enough to be atmospheric. But we hardly ever had enough rain to stop us from doing anything. Not bad! So now we go home for the fall season we love in NYC. See you there!

You probably can’t tell from the picture, but just as we arrived at Heathrow airport for our flight home some of the nastiest, windiest, rainiest weather of the whole trip moved in