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Once the Presidential Palace, now known as the Reunification Palace

Once the Presidential Palace, now known as the Reunification Palace

As we were anticipating our time in Vietnam, I certainly didn’t expect that we’d spend seven nights in Saigon. We’d been here 13 years ago and just weren’t that into the city. So we booked three nights and figured we’d move on after that. Instead we extended that stay to five days and then booked another two between Con Tho and our upcoming trip to Con Dao. It’s really quite the exciting, vibrant, colorful, tasty, smelly, loud, historic city.

There have been some real changes in the years between our visit. Mark observed that per capita income has doubled over that period, so there’s just a lot more money sloshing around. One little example of that – or maybe an example of something else, but my guess is it’s about economic progress – is that when we were here in 2001 you couldn’t walk a block without someone asking if you wanted a ride on their scooter. Now it happens occasionally, but what’s noticeable is that it’s only middle-aged and older guys offering. Presumably younger guys have other ways of making money and in a shrinking market – the Vietnamese now all have their own scooters – there just isn’t the demand.

Wide, airy, gleaming halls give a sense of openness and elegance

Wide, airy, gleaming halls give a sense of openness and elegance

The diplomatic room, where President Thieu would receive new ambassadors

The diplomatic room, where President Thieu would receive new ambassadors

And the incredibly cheesy game room, looking almost exactly as it did when we saw it in 2001, and presumably as it did in the 1970s

And the incredibly cheesy game room, looking almost exactly as it did when we saw it in 2001, and presumably as it did in the 1970s

Some things, though, don’t change. I made a return visit to the old Presidential Palace, home of President Thieu from 1966 until the fall of Saigon (or, from their perspective, the liberation of Saigon; the victors do, after all, write history) in 1975. The building hasn’t changed, nor have the rooms, which have been maintained in all their 1960s and 1970s glory. My experience of it did, though. I remember thinking of it as just kind of cheesy, like most ’60s architecture.

This time, though, I had a different appreciation of it. Sure, the game room is incredibly dated and seems to be mission only Austin Powers, but the building itself had this great airiness, a flow and openness that made it seem cool even in Saigon heat. Spacious rooms, grand corridors, flowing air, it just really works. My favorite room, though, was the Salon of the 4 Cardinal Directions of Peace, an isolated room on what is otherwise the roof of the building. It was intended by the architect as a place for the President to find the calm necessary to make important decisions about the country’s future; it was also known as the meditation room. For President Thieu, though, well not so much. He turned it into a party room to entertain 100 or more guests, complete with hard-wood dance floor, bar, and bullet-proof glass. Maybe that says all you need to know about the short-lived Republic of Vietnam.

And everything you need to know about modern Vietnam is that they sell a little food and some refreshments up in that “mediation room” that turned into a party room. Here you are, a captive audience up on the fourth floor of the building, it’s pretty hot, and they charge – get this – just under $1.00 for a beer. A buck! A taxi to the restaurants we enjoy costs maybe two bucks, making us wonder how the economics can possibly work. We’re certainly not complaining, but it’s a pretty cheap place to travel, even if you live well.

At any rate, along with this museum I did a long walk to Cholon, the old Chinatown market area. Walking through miles of Saigon streets is quite the assault on your senses, just constant noise and intensity and assault. I swear the attitude of some of the scooter drivers is simply “If you don’t like my driving, stay off the sidewalk!” Crosswalks honestly mean nothing and stoplights are, for scooters, merely suggestive. The horn is essential gear and pretty much means “Get out of my way because I’m coming through no matter what you decide to do.” It was about five miles from our hotel out to the big market and nearly every inch of it was intense. Sounds, smells, crowds, all that. And in case you’re wondering, when I say “smells” I’m not talking fried chicken or apple pies; there are a lot of smells you’d really rather not experience.

So that’s pretty much it. Some great food at bargain prices, a nice hotel, beautiful Tet decorations, fascinating history, and everything in motion. That’s Saigon.

I take great pride in being able to get comfortable pretty much anywhere and read, but the Vietnamese put me to shame. You see this everywhere.

I take great pride in being able to get comfortable pretty much anywhere and read, but the Vietnamese put me to shame. You see this everywhere.

Everywhere. And when they're not reading on their scooters they might be eating lunch or sleeping.

Everywhere. And when they’re not reading on their scooters they might be eating lunch or sleeping.

Others have the more comfy chairs out on the street

Others have the more comfy chairs out on the street

Saigon traffic. Interestingly, Mark notice that everyone wears helmets. Or almost everyone; kids don't. Strange world where every adult wears a helmet but the kids don't.

Saigon traffic. Interestingly, Mark notice that everyone wears helmets. Or almost everyone; kids don’t. Strange world where every adult wears a helmet but the kids don’t.

Outside the market in Cholon. Intense.

Outside the market in Cholon. Intense.

Lots of beans for sale in the market

Lots of beans for sale in the market

And sugar, I think

And sugar, I think

These guys, including the guys in orange who I'm pretty sure are municipal workers, were playing this game when I walked past on my way to the market and still at it a couple hours later when I came back heading home. Sure glad that never happens with municipal workers in the U.S.! (Notice the guy napping behind them…)

These guys, including the guys in orange who I’m pretty sure are municipal workers, were playing this game when I walked past on my way to the market and still at it a couple hours later when I came back heading home. Sure glad that never happens with municipal workers in the U.S.! (Notice the guy napping behind them…)

We have a picture of this dragon from our visit in 2001. Two changes, though. Back then the fountain was working, which was really cool. And the dragon was unpainted then, just white. So one step forward and then a step back...

We have a picture of this dragon from our visit in 2001. Two changes, though. Back then the fountain was working, which was really cool. And the dragon was unpainted then, just white. So one step forward and then a step back…

As Tet is winding down there was a colorful show outside the Central Post Office

As Tet is winding down there was a colorful show outside the Central Post Office

And finally, the night view from our hotel room. Goodnight, Saigon!

And finally, the night view from our hotel room. Goodnight, Saigon!

The Victoria Can Tho Resort - a big improvement over our first Can Tho hotel and not a bad place to hang out when there's not a lot else to do

The Victoria Can Tho Resort – a big improvement over our first Can Tho hotel and not a bad place to hang out when there’s not a lot else to do

We were amused to find this small but well-lit replica of the Bitexco Financial Tower that I'd liked so much in Saigon, sponsored by Tiger Beer

We were amused to find this small but well-lit replica of the Bitexco Financial Tower that I’d liked so much in Saigon, sponsored by Tiger Beer

Can Tho has long held a place of great importance in our travel history. We came here in late 2001 as part of a tour of the Mekong Delta out of Saigon and stayed in the worst hotel we’ve ever had: an interior room with no windows in a crummy building. Worst hotel ever. I’d loved the Mekong Delta, the floating markets, the life on the river, but I wanted to experience it from a more comfortable place. So from Saigon we headed south to this city of somewhat over a million people, the largest city in the delta.

The delta region is exceptionally flat, so it’s a great place to bicycle, and there are lots of opportunities to go out on little boats to see the floating markets and all the rest the Mekong Delta has to offer. Wave at all the little kids playing and swimming in the river, that sort of thing. Well, to be somewhat more precise, there are lots of opportunities to do all that except during Tet. We forgot to ask about that little part. Nope, no bike tours this week. And no floating market this week, either.

Downtown Can Tho also has a huge statue of Uncle Ho

Downtown Can Tho also has a huge statue of Uncle Ho

So there you go – three days and not a lot to do. There was a pretty cool little, local market in the early evenings in town, and one really nice restaurant. We were, however, in a much nicer hotel than our first trip through Can Tho, and hanging around the pool reading in between little walking trips into town isn’t the worst way to spend a couple days though it doesn’t give a lot to report.

From here we’re headed back to Saigon for a couple days before flying to Con Dao, an island south of here for a little beach time. After all, we don’t get enough of that.

We were supposed to take a bus to Can Tho, having been told that buses run every 30 minutes. When we got to the bus station, though, we discovered that there were no seats available for several hours. So we hired a car and drove through scenery like this. Sweet.

We were supposed to take a bus to Can Tho, having been told that buses run every 30 minutes. When we got to the bus station, though, we discovered that there were no seats available for several hours. So we hired a car and drove through scenery like this. Sweet.

A little piece of the local market in Can Tho

A little piece of the local market in Can Tho

Much of the traffic in the area is on these little boats.  Interestingly, they're mostly driven by women. And you can see how friendly people are; these were just strangers who gave me big smiles as they approached the pier where I was standing. I didn't get a picture of it, but when they got out of the boat she was wearing the biggest heels you could imagine, four- or five-inch spikes. Not what I think of as boat shoes.

Much of the traffic in the area is on these little boats. Interestingly, they’re mostly driven by women. And you can see how friendly people are; these were just strangers who gave me big smiles as they approached the pier where I was standing. I didn’t get a picture of it, but when they got out of the boat she was wearing the biggest heels you could imagine, four- or five-inch spikes. Not what I think of as boat shoes.

The approach to Can Tho is over the Boston-like bridge in the background here, the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia. How's that for trivia?

The approach to Can Tho is over the Boston-like bridge in the background here, the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia. How’s that for trivia?

A nice flat city is great for running. This was my morning run along the river. Not bad!

A nice flat city is great for running. This was my morning run along the river. Not bad!

And in the evening it was into town to L'Escale, a nice place on the fifth floor of a hotel with great views

And in the evening it was into town to L’Escale, a nice place on the fifth floor of a hotel with great views

One of the things we love about traveling is the occasional mystery of just what we're going to get. Here our friendly waiter is showing Mark how to wrap the various ingredients he's been served into a Vietnamese dish.

One of the things we love about traveling is the occasional mystery of just what we’re going to get. Here our friendly waiter is showing Mark how to wrap the various ingredients he’s been served into a Vietnamese dish.

One last shot of the little local market that. I love walking through these things, just looking and smelling and watching...

One last shot of the little local market that. I love walking through these things, just looking and smelling and watching…

The story of our life...

The story of our life…

We’re having these post-traumatic flashbacks to traveling in Malaysia last February with Mark’s father and brother during Chinese New Year when it seemed as though everything was closed for going on two weeks. Now here we are in Vietnam just as Tet – the Vietnamese New Year celebration – is getting underway. And it’s apparent they take this holiday seriously.

Decorations on Le Duan Boulevard, which runs past our hotel down to the old Presidential Palace

Decorations on Le Duan Boulevard, which runs past our hotel down to the old Presidential Palace

So far, at least, that’s been mostly good. The city is really dressed up and there are lots of happy Vietnamese out celebrating, having fun, dressing up, taking pictures, and just in general being happy. At the same time lots of stuff has been closed, like a well-regarded travel company that we’d hoped to schedule some biking adventures with down in the Mekong delta. For now, though, I’m enjoying the beauty of it all. In fact, we’d planned on only staying three days, but we’ve extended that for another two days just because it’s so cool.

Our hotel lobby decked out for the holiday

Our hotel lobby decked out for the holiday

Mark & I were here in late 2001 after traveling south from Hanoi over four weeks. Back then I wasn’t impressed with Saigon (technically Ho Chi Minh City, but everyone still calls it Saigon); it was too big and dirty and hot after our beautiful experiences further north.

This time, though, I’m loving the city. It’s obvious that the economy here has been booming; lots of high rises that weren’t here 15 years ago, lots of very upscale shopping. Back then you couldn’t walk half a block without having someone drive up on a small motorcycle and offer to drive you wherever you’re going for a small price, but this time there’s almost none of that. (There was one woman who approached me while I was walking through a park alone and asked if I wanted “boom boom in hotel” but I guess that’s eternal and universal.)

In the worst of situations you get the sense that Saigon can be a beautiful city. But this week, with all the Tet decorations and people dressed up for the holiday, it’s a seriously beautiful city. Apparently yellow and red are the colors of Tet, and there are enormous amounts of yellow and red flowers and trees all over the central part of the city where we’re spending our time. Big, bright light displays over city streets. Our hotel lobby all dressed up.

The Central Post Office, designed by one Gustave Eiffel, is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city

The Central Post Office, designed by one Gustave Eiffel, is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city

Oh yeah, and then there’s all that modern history that just seeps through everything for me. I grew up during the war – I was serving in the Navy over in Naples when Saigon fell – and it’s so strange to think of this as the site of all that history. We’re just a couple blocks from the old Presidential Palace, even closer to the old American embassy. An easy walk to the Continental and Rex Hotels, where Graham Greene and David Halberstam and so many other journalists and officials tried to figure out what the hell was going wrong, and just a couple minutes from the building where that iconic photo of an helicopter taking some of the last Americans away as the troops from the North moved into the city.

This is the tank that rammed through the gate of the Presidential Palace 40 years ago this April, signaling the final victory of the North

This is the tank that rammed through the gate of the Presidential Palace 40 years ago this April, signaling the final victory of the North

We’re planning on spending maybe four weeks in Vietnam, and after just three days here I get the sense I’m going to fall in love with it again. Meanwhile here are some of my favorite pictures from our first couple days in Vietnam. All this beauty, and we haven’t even been to the beach yet!

No discussion of Vietnam would be complete without mentioning the fabulous food. This was my first bowl of pho, the ubiquitous noodle soup mixed with Vietnamese herbs and spices and lots of fresh greens. Don't let those noodles fool you, though; to avoid the carbs we just eat the meet and greens and broth, leaving the noodles in the bowl. The Vietnamese think we're weird.

No discussion of Vietnam would be complete without mentioning the fabulous food. This was my first bowl of pho, the ubiquitous noodle soup mixed with Vietnamese herbs and spices and lots of fresh greens. Don’t let those noodles fool you, though; to avoid the carbs we just eat the meet and greens and broth, leaving the noodles in the bowl. The Vietnamese think we’re weird.

The city is awash in yellow and red flowers and trees

The city is awash in yellow and red flowers and trees

These yellow-blossomed trees are all over the city. We were told that they were apricot trees, but the pictures of apricot blossoms I see online are mostly white and light pink. At any rate, whatever else they are, they are beautiful.

These yellow-blossomed trees are all over the city. We were told that they were apricot trees, but the pictures of apricot blossoms I see online are mostly white and light pink. At any rate, whatever else they are, they are beautiful.

How do all those flowers and trees get around the city? We saw lots of these - guys who'd strapped whole trees onto the back of their bikes - traveling around the city.

How do all those flowers and trees get around the city? We saw lots of these – guys who’d strapped whole trees onto the back of their bikes – traveling around the city.

The traffic in Saigon is a story unto itself. It's actually a lot calmer than many huge Asian cities, but crossing a street can be daunting. In most cases street lights either don't exist or are largely ignored. Instead you step off the curb and walk deliberately to your destination. The swarm of scooters just flows around you, like a rock in a river. Don't dart or move too fast, though, 'cause that's when you get in trouble; just trust that they'll miss you.

The traffic in Saigon is a story unto itself. It’s actually a lot calmer than many huge Asian cities, but crossing a street can be daunting. In most cases street lights either don’t exist or are largely ignored. Instead you step off the curb and walk deliberately to your destination. The swarm of scooters just flows around you, like a rock in a river. Don’t dart or move too fast, though, ’cause that’s when you get in trouble; just trust that they’ll miss you.

The Bitexco Financial Tower, emblem of the new Saigon. It's supposed to resemble a lotus flower, but I'm not seeing that.

The Bitexco Financial Tower, emblem of the new Saigon. It’s supposed to resemble a lotus flower, but I’m not seeing that.

I was out seeing the sights one afternoon and who should be out for a stroll down a street all decorated for Tet but Vietnam's Prime Minister, Nguyen Tan Dung, a native southerner (in a country ruled by the north). It was a strangely subdued experience; people were taking pictures and all, but it wasn't that big a deal.

I was out seeing the sights one afternoon and who should be out for a stroll down a street all decorated for Tet but Vietnam’s Prime Minister, Nguyen Tan Dung, a native southerner (in a country ruled by the north). It was a strangely subdued experience; people were taking pictures and all, but it wasn’t that big a deal.

And then I was walking down the street and found President Obama chatting with Vietnamese President Truong Tan Song. OK, they weren't really there, but there was a big poster of their 2013 meeting, suggesting the prestige that goes with a meeting between President Obama and … anyone.

And then I was walking down the street and found President Obama chatting with Vietnamese President Truong Tan Song. OK, they weren’t really there, but there was a big poster of their 2013 meeting, suggesting the prestige that goes with a meeting between President Obama and … anyone.

You'll recall this iconic photo of the last Americans escaping Saigon on April 29, 1975, as the troops from the North moved in. This is often described as people escaping from the Embassy, but in fact it was a building where many Americans - in particular CIA operatives - lived a few blocks from the embassy. A fitting example of how we got lots and lots of things wrong in Vietnam.

You’ll recall this iconic photo of the last Americans escaping Saigon on April 29, 1975, as the troops from the North moved in. This is often described as people escaping from the Embassy, but in fact it was a building where many Americans – in particular CIA operatives – lived a few blocks from the embassy. A fitting example of how we got lots and lots of things wrong in Vietnam.

Here's the same building today, still standing almost 40 years later. Now it's across the street from a beautiful little park, an upscale mall, and a high-rise office tower. I just couldn't stop staring at that elevator shaft, once an emblem of America's shame and defeat, now … just an elevator shaft.

Here’s the same building today, still standing almost 40 years later. Now it’s across the street from a beautiful little park, an upscale mall, and a high-rise office tower. I just couldn’t stop staring at that elevator shaft, once an emblem of America’s shame and defeat, now … just an elevator shaft.

And finally, Tet martinis at the newly renovated Park Hyatt Saigon. Lovely.

And finally, Tet martinis at the newly renovated Park Hyatt Saigon. Lovely.