South Korea

Mark posing with a South Korean soldier … in North Korea!

Mark posing with a South Korean soldier … in North Korea!

Korea turned out to be a shorter diversion than we’d expected. Even just a couple weeks ago, when we started planning this, we figured Mark’s knee would be in good shape to hike by this point and there is supposed to be great hiking on Jeju-do, South Korea’s southernmost major island. Alas, that recovery is still lagging so instead of pushing things we headed back to Seoul to do a little more urban sight seeing (really to see if we’d missed something explaining why it’s supposedly such a design destination).

Some of the tumuli in and around Gyeongju. They're everywhere and oddly amusing.

Some of the tumuli in and around Gyeongju. They’re everywhere and oddly amusing.

This is Cheomseongdae, the Far East's oldest astrological observatory. Built in the 7th century, it's surprisingly sophisticated: the twelve stones at its base represent the months, while the 30 layers reflect the number of days in a month and the 366 stones used in its construction reflect the number of days in a Shilla year. Apparently there are other details relating to stars and all that. Still, it was hard to see how this reasonably short structure could work as an observatory.

This is Cheomseongdae, the Far East’s oldest astrological observatory. Built in the 7th century, it’s surprisingly sophisticated: the twelve stones at its base represent the months, while the 30 layers reflect the number of days in a month and the 366 stones used in its construction reflect the number of days in a Shilla year. Apparently there are other details relating to stars and all that. Still, it was hard to see how this reasonably short structure could work as an observatory.

First, though, we did a three-day stop in Gyeongju, a little north of Busan and described as a “museum without walls.” Back in 57 B.C., when Julius Ceasar was making his name in Gaul, Gyeongju became the capital of the Shilla dynasty and remained the capital for nearly a thousand years as the dynasty was the first to conquer the entire Korean peninsula.

Today the city is far smaller than the million people who lived there at its peak, but it has tons of historic attractions. The most distinctive of these are the mounds, round grassy tombs called tumuli, all over the city and outlying areas. They’re all tombs of monarchs, their families, and other important people. Most (all?) of them have been excavated and relieved of their riches, but the mounds still remain.

The biggest attraction in the area, several miles outside of town, is the Buddhist temple called Bulguk-sa, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site called “the crowning glory of Shilla architecture.” No question about it, it’s a beautiful retreat with gorgeous buildings. Mark & I were curious, though, about just how old the buildings we saw were. I mean, how long can wood buildings and especially the paint on them last? Turns out most of the buildings are restorations of the long-since destroyed originals.

After this little stopover it was back on a bullet train to Seoul. After our second stop in the city I’m still struggling to figure out what to make of it. I’d expected great design and architecture and, with a couple exceptions, didn’t find it. In fact, we went out of or way to go to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Park, completed in 2013 as a showcase to Korean design. Wow, was I not impressed. It struck me as a bad hangover from 1970s and 1980s ugly urban renewal, something that will have to be torn down in 10 years to save the neighborhood.

A sliver of Seoul from atop Namsan Park

A sliver of Seoul from atop Namsan Park

Still, there is something fascinating and alive – intense – in the city. With 10.5 million people living there, it’s bigger than Michigan. Yeah, imagine taking everyone in Michigan and putting them in less than 250 square miles and you’re going to get something interesting going on. I spent one of our days on a huge walk across part of the city (something over 15 miles) and back up Namsan Park for a clear-day view of the megapolis and was just so urban, so big. I have a feeling that if I had a few weeks to spend in Seoul I’d come to love it, but I’ll admit I’m not there yet.

The big excursion for this return visit was to go up to the Demilitarized Zone and Joint Security Area. Calling it a demilitarized zone is something of a misnomer: it’s incredibly militarized as North and South Korea continue their decades-long face-off across the 38th parallel (or the post-1953 equivalent). It’s been called the scariest place on earth, but speaking with experience now I can say that’s an overstatement. Lots of military and land mines and electric fences and all that, but they wouldn’t take tourists there if it were really that dangerous. The only way to see these two areas is on an organized tour so, notwithstanding our general aversion to such things, we signed up. (Not surprisingly we loved the experience and hated the tour; the guides just blathered on, seemingly thinking silence was the ultimate sin.)

The DMZ portion of the tour was interesting enough; you got to tour one of the tunnels the North built to try to infiltrate its troops into the South and an observatory area where you can look through powerful binoculars into the North. And we went to a train station built a few years ago in an era of optimism to handle high-speed trains between Seoul and Pyongyang, the North Korean capital. Everything is set to go for better relations, if not unification, except for the absence of train tracks and permission from the North to start building. Except for that, though, the train station is ready to go.

The Joint Security Area at the border between North & South Korea. These are South Korean soldiers, with the sentry standing half exposed and half hidden, to minimize the amount of target he exposes to the North. The building in the background is in North Korea, with high-ranking military officials on the upper balcony watching us (or, more likely, watching the military people all around us).

The Joint Security Area at the border between North & South Korea. These are South Korean soldiers, with the sentry standing half exposed and half hidden, to minimize the amount of target he exposes to the North. The building in the background is in North Korea, with high-ranking military officials on the upper balcony watching us (or, more likely, watching the military people all around us).

A close up of the North Korean brass watching us. You wonder what they think of the Defense Minister having recently been executed for falling asleep.

A close up of the North Korean brass watching us. You wonder what they think of the Defense Minister having recently been executed for falling asleep.

The real excitement though was the trip to the Joint Security Area, an area built in Panmunjeom for the peace talks after the 1953 armistice. There are guards there at full alert just a couple yards from the formal border. Across the way you can see North Korean troops standing on alert lest the South Koreans get too frisky or something. The totally cool part of the tour is that you’re allowed into building that straddles the border, apparently set up for meetings. And then you can walk a couple yards into North Korean territory. How cool is that? Mark & I both just kept grinning: We’re in North Korea! Absent a more serious opportunity, though, we won’t count it as one of the countries we’ve actually been to.

So now it’s off to Koh Samui, Thailand for some serious beach time and a little celebration for Mark’s 50th birthday.

One of the gates at Bulguk-sa, a Buddhist temple east of Gyeongju

One of the gates at Bulguk-sa, a Buddhist temple east of Gyeongju

More of the beauty of Bulguk-sa

More of the beauty of Bulguk-sa

Bill (the friend we were traveling with in Korea) and I did a big hike one morning up a peak with great views of Gyeongju. The hike was great, but you can see the fog at the top. No views today!

Bill (the friend we were traveling with in Korea) and I did a big hike one morning up a peak with great views of Gyeongju. The hike was great, but you can see the fog at the top. No views today!

And then there were these beauties Mark discovered in Gyeongju. Notice that they both have one blue eye and one green eye.

And then there were these beauties Mark discovered in Gyeongju. Notice that they both have one blue eye and one green eye.

This is bulgogi, a traditional Korean dish. Many places served lots of side dishes with it, but this place had over 30 side dishes. Amazing and unforgettable.

This is bulgogi, a traditional Korean dish. Many places served lots of side dishes with it, but this place had over 30 side dishes. Amazing and unforgettable.

The train station all ready to go to Pyongyang. Except the tracks, but otherwise ready to go.

The train station all ready to go to Pyongyang. Except the tracks, but otherwise ready to go.

The bridge in the DMZ over which returning POWs crossed back to the South.

The bridge in the DMZ over which returning POWs crossed back to the South.

Here I am in the Joint Security Area straddling the border. My left foot is in South Korea, my right foot in the North.

Here I am in the Joint Security Area straddling the border. My left foot is in South Korea, my right foot in the North.

While in Seoul we stumbled onto a little Russian enclave and ended up having lunch at a great little Uzbek restaurant. Meals from that part of the world require vodka so we complied.

While in Seoul we stumbled onto a little Russian enclave and ended up having lunch at a great little Uzbek restaurant. Meals from that part of the world require vodka so we complied.

Finally, we were glad to note that smoking was not allowed at our restaurant in Gyeongju

Finally, we were glad to note that smoking was not allowed at our restaurant in Gyeongju

This is the brilliant Haeundae I'Park, not far from our hotel. The tallest tower is 80 stories, while one of the other towers includes the Park Hyatt hotel. We expected to see this kind of striking design in Seoul, but found it in Busan.

This is the brilliant Haeundae I’Park, not far from our hotel. The tallest tower is 80 stories, while one of the other towers includes the Park Hyatt hotel. We expected to see this kind of striking design in Seoul, but found it in Busan.

From Seoul in South Korea’s northeast we took a high-speed train to Busan, the country’s second city and one of the world’s largest ports, in the country’s southwest. It’s great being in a place that’s small enough and where the rail infrastructure is so good you can get across the country in just a couple of hours. I’d read of Busan (then known as Pusan) from it’s role in the Korean War. In 1950, when the North steamrolled over Seoul and essentially all the rest of the country, Gen. MacArthur and his troops made their final stand on the Pusan Perimeter. The line held – unlike other lines the U.S. troops had tried to establish, allowing MacArthur to land troops behind the North Korean lines at Incheon, thus dramatically altering the course of the war. Until, of course, he pushed too far north and fortunes were reversed again. But that’s another story.

We loved Busan, and my only regret is that we only had four days to enjoy it. We had some great food, saw some brilliant architecture, stumbled into a red light district (!), and had a great room with a great view of the South Korea’s best beach.

Another architectural wonder is the Busan Cinema Center, home to the Busan International Film Festival. The building here has the world's largest cantilever roof, as certified by no less an authority than the Guinness Book of World Records. Now I don't know exactly what a cantilever roof is, but it has something to do with the enormous distance between the end of the roof and the center structure supposedly holding the whole thing up.

Another architectural wonder is the Busan Cinema Center, home to the Busan International Film Festival. The building here has the world’s largest cantilever roof, as certified by no less an authority than the Guinness Book of World Records. Now I don’t know exactly what a cantilever roof is, but it has something to do with the enormous distance between the end of the roof and the center structure supposedly holding the whole thing up.

Busan plays up its desire to be seen as an international film center. Here I am standing in a big cave with Tarzan. Weird.

Busan plays up its desire to be seen as an international film center. Here I am standing in a big cave with Tarzan. Weird.

This was the view from our hotel room; as you can see we were right on the beach. The weather cleared up brilliantly after this first-day picture, but it was still not quite beach season. Still, the view made the room a great place to hang out, especially for Mark as he continues to take it easy and spend lots of time icing his recovering knee.

This was the view from our hotel room; as you can see we were right on the beach. The weather cleared up brilliantly after this first-day picture, but it was still not quite beach season. Still, the view made the room a great place to hang out, especially for Mark as he continues to take it easy and spend lots of time icing his recovering knee.

We have definitely been getting into Korean food. We don't exactly understand it or know what to expect, but in most cases you order … something … and they bring many, many small dishes to go with it. It's spicy and sometimes a little weird tasting, but it's been pretty good so far.

We have definitely been getting into Korean food. We don’t exactly understand it or know what to expect, but in most cases you order … something … and they bring many, many small dishes to go with it. It’s spicy and sometimes a little weird tasting, but it’s been pretty good so far.

A highlight was our journey to Beomeo-sa, a Buddhist temple nestled in the mountains north of the main part of the city. Getting there consisted of a subway ride going something like 15 stops, connecting to another subway line going 14 stops or so, and then catching a taxi (up) and a bus (down), but it was very much worth it.

A highlight was our journey to Beomeo-sa, a Buddhist temple nestled in the mountains north of the main part of the city. Getting there consisted of a subway ride going something like 15 stops, connecting to another subway line going 14 stops or so, and then catching a taxi (up) and a bus (down), but it was very much worth it.

These plastic light shades blanketed large areas of the temple adding a beautiful touch to the temple

These plastic light shades blanketed large areas of the temple adding a beautiful touch to the temple

And as the sunlight came through, it created this fascinating pattern on what otherwise is just a plain dirt surface

And as the sunlight came through, it created this fascinating pattern on what otherwise is just a plain dirt surface

You may have heard the Buddhism is a peaceful religion. Well. This was at the bottom of a statue in the temple, with some huge god or other trampling this poor guy. Doesn't look very calm and centered to me.

You may have heard the Buddhism is a peaceful religion. Well. This was at the bottom of a statue in the temple, with some huge god or other trampling this poor guy. Doesn’t look very calm and centered to me.

Cheonggyecheon in downtown Seoul, a great place to run in the morning and stroll in the evening

Cheonggyecheon in downtown Seoul, a great place to run in the morning and stroll in the evening

Now it’s off to Korea, our 35th country since we left the U.S. two years ago and the first completely new country for both of us since Liechtenstein 10 months ago. This has been high on our list of “must see” countries for years, but as recently as a month ago we still weren’t going to fit it in while we were over on this side of the world. Then the earthquake in Nepal blew up our plans, so here we are.

What to say about Seoul, our first stop in Korea? I’ll admit, it was somewhat disappointing. The city has been a huge economic success over the last few decades and has grown at exponential rates; today it has over 10 million residents. It’s a city increasingly known for technology companies like Samsung and as a center of modern design. I was expecting a lot, and maybe that was the problem.

The three buildings that make up Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, with the statue Tall Tree and the Eye in the foreground and the Grand Hyatt hotel looming in back

The three buildings that make up Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, with the statue Tall Tree and the Eye in the foreground and the Grand Hyatt hotel looming in back

To be sure, there were some great parts to the city. My favorite was Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art which was, for me, just about a perfect museum. It consists of three buildings, each designed by a different “star-chitect” (a word I just learned from Mark). The museum itself is a work of art, each building separate yet harmoniously integrated. One consists of traditional Korean art, another a mixture of Korean and international modern art, while the third building is the Child Education & Culture Center that houses special exhibits.

Besides the beauty of the two components we toured, what we loved was both the scale of the exhibits and the useful and interesting information provided. We’re just too familiar with museums that show 5,000 shards of old pots that I’m sure are important but, if you’re not an expert, they’re just not that interesting. At Leeum, the permanent collection consisted of a much smaller number of brilliant pieces. As a result I learned more about what was there (I’ll admit, I’d never heard of “celadon“, but I loved it) and how or why it was unique.

A perfect museum.

One of the beautiful displays of celadon in the museum. Don't tell them about this photo; you weren't supposed to take pictures.

One of the beautiful displays of celadon in the museum. Don’t tell them about this photo; you weren’t supposed to take pictures.

There were two great walking/running/hiking areas that I loved. One is Cheonggyecheon, a beautiful stream running right through the city center just a couple blocks from our hotel.

As you worked your way downstream Cheonggyecheon became more natural and beautiful

As you worked your way downstream Cheonggyecheon became more natural and beautiful

The stream had been covered up for decades by an elevated highway, but a $400 million urban renewal project tore the highway down and opened up the area (shades of the Big Dig!) in 2005. Apparently the water that now flows through the landscaped urban oasis is pumped in at great expense from elsewhere, generating plenty of concern among environmentalists, and there was lots of controversy about removing the people and small businesses that had congregated along the stream/highway over the years. Still, without knowing the merits of the various issues, it’s a great place to run in the morning or promenade in the evening.

This was a real meatpacking district, not some namby-pamby tourist destination.

This was a real meatpacking district, not some namby-pamby tourist destination.

Amusingly, we walked down it a few miles on our first full day in Seoul, enjoying the gentle beauty. When we figured we’d gone far enough we just randomly turned inland toward the city, in the general direction of our hotel, and found ourselves in the meatpacking district. We felt like we may have been the first tourists ever to amble through the smelly, bloody mess.

The other adventure highlight in Seoul was Namsan (South Mountain) Park, an 860-foot peak just south of the city center. I hiked up to peak and walked around the area, but my inspiration was the Happy Legs running group I saw out for a run. Not just any running group, they were a mixed group of blind and sighted runners. The visually impaired runners were typically tethered to sighted runners who led them gently over the undulating hills in the park. I love my morning runs, but watching runners help someone who is blind run on a hilly trail was pretty impressive.

The Happy Legs running club, with blind runners tethered to and guided by those who could see.

The Happy Legs running club, with blind runners tethered to and guided by those who could see.

A view of Changdeokgung, a 16th century palace that today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

A view of Changdeokgung, a 16th century palace that today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Seoul has some great historic temples and palaces, as you would expect in a city that has been a capital for centuries, so we went to see some of those. And we’re starting to get used to Korean cuisine and all the great little dishes that are associated with any meal. Still, I left the city somewhat underwhelmed. Somehow the city never came together for me, though maybe it’s expecting a lot to understand a city of 10 million on a five-day stop. I never saw the great design elements in the architecture (except for the Leeum museum) I was hoping for, instead seeing a lot of soul-less 1950s and 1960s buildings.

The good news is that we expect to spend a few more days in Seoul at the end of our time in Korea, in part because we ran out of time to tour the DMZ on the border with North Korea. Speaking of which, we were here when news came out that the ruler of North Korea, Kim Jung-un, had the country’s Defense Minister executed – killed in front of hundreds by anti-aircraft fire – for showing disrespect by falling asleep in a meeting he attended with Kim. This guy is a freak. A dangerous and honestly scary freak.

We're traveling in Korea for a couple weeks with our friend Bill Armstrong, a Minnesotan who is also a Navy veteran. Despite those similarities, I don't know him from Minnesota or the Navy; we met several years ago on vacation in Chile and have stayed in touch over the years. He's traveling for a year, so we met up in Korea before he heads to Japan and New Guinea.

We’re traveling in Korea for a couple weeks with our friend Bill Armstrong, a Minnesotan who is also a Navy veteran. Despite those similarities, I don’t know him from Minnesota or the Navy; we met several years ago on vacation in Chile and have stayed in touch over the years. He’s traveling for a year, so we met up in Korea before he heads to Japan and New Guinea.

There were lots of great shots of Changdeokgung

There were lots of great shots of Changdeokgung

The buildings are colorful and elaborate

The buildings are colorful and elaborate

Seoul is the home of K-Pop music and everyone wants to be a star, including these boys posing at one of the ancient palaces

Seoul is the home of K-Pop music and everyone wants to be a star, including these boys posing at one of the ancient palaces

As I neared the peak of Namsan Park, a fellow hiker took my picture

As I neared the peak of Namsan Park, a fellow hiker took my picture

A view of Seoul from the top of Namsan Park

A view of Seoul from the top of Namsan Park

This statue was just outside  one of the exits from Changdeokgung Palace. I assume they're playing a game, but it looks less innocent to at least some people

This statue was just outside one of the exits from Changdeokgung Palace. I assume they’re playing a game, but it looks less innocent to at least some people

One final shot from Changdeokgung Palace

One final shot from Changdeokgung Palace

One of our first Korean meals as we were still getting used to the large number of fascinating side dishes that come with every meal.

One of our first Korean meals as we were still getting used to the large number of fascinating side dishes that come with every meal.

Finally, this isn't a great shot, but it's a great story. We were staying on the Executive Club floor in Seoul, where they have happy hour every night with free drinks and light food. As the bar was closing one night these people sitting next to us went and got two extra glasses of wine (to go with the glasses they already had) plus extra beer and juice and sodas. Happy Hour ended for the rest of us at 8:00 PM but they must have had enough to last another hour or two. Well done, neighbors!

Finally, this isn’t a great shot, but it’s a great story. We were staying on the Executive Club floor in Seoul, where they have happy hour every night with free drinks and light food. As the bar was closing one night these people sitting next to us went and got two extra glasses of wine (to go with the glasses they already had) plus extra beer and juice and sodas. Happy Hour ended for the rest of us at 8:00 PM but they must have had enough to last another hour or two. Well done, neighbors!