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Mark posing in front of cherry trees with blooming forsythia behind him. Hangzhou, and West Lake in particular, is a seriously beautiful place no matter what the weather is.

Mark posing in front of cherry trees with blooming forsythia behind him. Hangzhou, and West Lake in particular, is a seriously beautiful place no matter what the weather is.

From Shanghai it was off by high-speed train to Hangzhou. This is one of those cases where the journey is every bit a part of the entertainment; there is just something about being on a train going 150 miles an hour that is cool. They’re all over China, of course; it’s just the U.S. that doesn’t seem to be able to develop effective high-speed rail.

West Lake is beautiful in the gloom

West Lake is beautiful in the gloom

And it's beautiful in the sunshine

And it’s beautiful in the sunshine

Westerners are pretty rare in Hangzhou, and little kids in particular were often fascinated by us

Westerners are pretty rare in Hangzhou, and little kids in particular were often fascinated by us

Once we got there, thought, we discovered that Hangzhou is really a beautiful city, or at least the part of it we saw is. It’s a city of “just” 8.7 million people, making it slightly bigger than New York City, so I suppose we shouldn’t be surprised that most Americans – me included – have never really heard of it. It is, though, one of China’s primary tourist destinations, particularly for the Chinese themselves. As we walked around West Lake, the primary tourist attraction, there were almost no westerners besides us; I’m sure non-Asians made up less than one percent of the people enjoying West Lake the two days we were there. And as a result we were often the objects of much interest.

West Lake, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 for having inspired poets, artists, and scholars for over a thousand years, is the center of Hangzhou’s beauty. We had the opportunity to explore the lake on two very different days: Friday was gloomy and misty and beautiful while Saturday was clear and sunny and beautiful.

And crowded. Anyone who doubts there are a billion Chinese should go to West Lake on a beautiful spring Saturday, particularly after several days of cool rain. There might not have been a billion Chinese there, but there were a lot. And perfectly easy to understand why – it’s a stunning place. A big urban lake with beautiful landscaping and parks all around it. Even man-made causeways across the lake with willows and cherry trees and peach and plum trees, all just starting to blossom. It felt as though we were almost cheating to experience the beauty of spring in Hangzhou without having ever gone through winter. I mean, spring is supposed to be the reward for surviving winter, but for us we just dropped in at the right time. Instead, we saw – and more importantly smelled – our first lilacs of the year. Heaven.

Our last night there we went to a water show, one of those big Asian extravaganzas they like to produce on a lake or river. A cast of scores (though we saw one a couple years ago with a cast of hundreds) with lights and music and costumes on an only slightly submerged stage, acting out some great and ancient love story. I didn’t really understand it, of course, but it was beautiful and entertaining. The only down side of the evening is that for whatever reason the city is not remotely set up to get all the tourists who go to the show back to their homes or hotels afterwards; we had to walk a long way back – with kids who weren’t real keen on a long walk at 9:00 PM – before we could finally hail a cab for the rest of the journey back.

This the guy that lost his love but then got her back. That's how much of the story I understood….

This the guy that lost his love but then got her back. That’s how much of the story I understood….

So that was Hangzhou. We would have considered staying longer but the forecast was for a return to cold, damp, rainy days after the one beautiful Saturday, so we decided to get out of the cold and head south to Hainan, a big island in the South China Sea. A little beach time is always a good thing.

We guessed that the tree in the foreground was some sort of cherry tree, but we've never seen one with blossoms that shade of red

We guessed that the tree in the foreground was some sort of cherry tree, but we’ve never seen one with blossoms that shade of red

Along one of the long, artificial land bridges that span the lake. These were really beautiful walks on a great spring day.

Along one of the long, artificial land bridges that span the lake. These were really beautiful walks on a great spring day.

The city's skyline behind the lake, with one of the bridges in the distance

The city’s skyline behind the lake, with one of the bridges in the distance

Cherry trees and forsythia

Cherry trees and forsythia

More cherry trees and flowers

More cherry trees and flowers

Posing with a Chinese scholar

Posing with a Chinese scholar

Lights from the Water Show

Lights from the Water Show

Another shot

Another shot

We managed to find some really good food in Hangzhou, including this great dish of beans and … other stuff

We managed to find some really good food in Hangzhou, including this great dish of beans and … other stuff

Finally, this was the view from our hotel room. If walking around West Lake convinced us there really are over a billion Chinese, this view helped us recognize just how much cement China is pouring these days.

Finally, this was the view from our hotel room. If walking around West Lake convinced us there really are over a billion Chinese, this view helped us recognize just how much cement China is pouring these days.

The skyline of Pudong, the financial center of Shanghai. The tallest building over on the right is the Shanghai Tower, while the World Financial Center and Jin Mao Tower are the somewhat smaller buildings to the left.

The skyline of Pudong, the financial center of Shanghai. The tallest building over on the right is the Shanghai Tower, while the World Financial Center and Jin Mao Tower are the somewhat smaller buildings to the left.

From Macau we flew to Shanghai to meet my brother Al and his family: wife Anita and cute kids Sierra and Jacob. We’re going to spend two weeks with them hanging out in China, the longest visit we’ve had so far in our nearly two years of travel. We’ve observed before that far from feeling isolated from family and friends while we’re traveling the world, we sometimes see more of people than we ever would have while we were working and all in the States. This is a great example; as far as we can remember I haven’t spent two consecutive weeks with Al since 1979, and I’ve never spent much quality time with his kids. So we’re pretty excited about this chance to hang out for a while.

Sierra and Jacob enjoying a peaceful moment in People's Park

Sierra and Jacob enjoying a peaceful moment in People’s Park

Shanghai is a beautiful, reasonably rich city and it’s big; with a population of just over 24 million Shanghai is the world’s largest city according to the UN’s definition of “city proper”, excluding suburban areas. (Trivia question that I certainly wouldn’t have gotten right: What’s the world’s second largest city? Give up? Karachi, Pakistan. Who knew??)

So what do you do when you’re got three days in the world’s largest city? In part, for the rest of the St. Georges, you try to deal with jet lag. It is certainly one of the greatest advantages of the way Mark & I are traveling that we rarely experience jet lag, as we almost never cross more than one time zone in a day. Beyond that, though, we walked around a lot, enjoying the early spring climate and admiring the beautiful skyline of Pudong, the section of the city across the Huangpu River. The skyline of Pudong includes three pretty remarkable buildings: the Jin Mao Tower, a beautiful 88-story building that, when we stayed at the Hyatt in it eight years ago was the tallest building in China; the Shanghai World Financial Center, a 101-story building that was the second-tallest building in the world when it was finished in 2007; and the 128-story Shanghai Tower, now the second-tallest building in the world.

Me and my "little" brother Al, his wife Anita, and Jacob & Sierra

Me and my “little” brother Al, his wife Anita, and Jacob & Sierra

Then, when the kids were a little tired of Mark & Jim’s forced march across the city we did a tour of the city on the local “Hop On, Hop Off” bus, a great way to see more of the city quickly. The highlight, though, was the amusement park in People’s Park in central Shanghai. It was a pretty small little diversion, but I guess if you’re eight or nine years old – or, in the case of Mark somewhat older than that – even a small amusement park is a heckuva lot of fun. And if you’re a child-deprived adult, watching them might be even more fun than they had.

So that was Stop One on the tour of China. A lot more to come….

Someone sure enjoyed the amusement park

Someone sure enjoyed the amusement park

Walking through the park I saw this garden of pansies and yelled to Al "Hey, get a picture of these pansies!" and then posed with Mark. He was less amused by my humor than I was.

Walking through the park I saw this garden of pansies and yelled to Al “Hey, get a picture of these pansies!” and then posed with Mark. He was less amused by my humor than I was.

And here was a random woman practicing her Tai Chi in front of a Dunkin' Donuts. There are a LOT of Dunkin' Donuts in Boston, but I've never seen that.

And here was a random woman practicing her Tai Chi in front of a Dunkin’ Donuts. There are a LOT of Dunkin’ Donuts in Boston, but I’ve never seen that.

Such cute kids!

Such cute kids!

Jacob admiring the view of Pudong

Jacob admiring the view of Pudong

Uncle Mark with the kids

Uncle Mark with the kids

And finally, a modern Chinese version a Cobb Salad. It was pretty great.

And finally, a modern Chinese version a Cobb Salad. It was pretty great.

This is all that's left of the Church of St. Paul, considered by some to be the greatest monument to Christianity in Asia. Built in the early 17th century, a fire in 1835 destroyed everything except the façade. It is surprisingly cool and serves as the symbol of Macau.

This is all that’s left of the Church of St. Paul, considered by some to be the greatest monument to Christianity in Asia. Built in the early 17th century, a fire in 1835 destroyed everything except the façade. It is surprisingly cool and serves as the symbol of Macau.

On kind of a lark, we spent three days in Macau, China’s “other” Special Administrative Region (along with Hong Kong) just 40 miles west of Hong Kong. Basically we had three days to kill before meeting my brother Al and his family in Singapore so we figured why not see Macau? Now we can check that one off.

The view of teeming Macau from our hotel room

The view of teeming Macau from our hotel room

Compared to Hong Kong’s seven million-plus population, Macau seems tiny at just over 600,000 people. Yet, when compared to other countries and “dependent territories,” Macau is the densest region on earth with nearly 55,000 people per square mile. To put that in some context, tiny Monaco is second with about 48,000 people per square mile while New York City, the densest city in the U.S., has about 27,000 people per square mile. In other words, imagine New York’s population doubling and you get a sense of Macau’s density. But – and this is a big but – Manhattan’s population density (as opposed to the City as a whole) is 70,000 people per square mile, so Macau falls pretty far short of that level.

Macau is primarily known as a gambling mecca, having surpassed Las Vegas as the world’s leading casino market. Since the official government monopoly on casinos was ended in 2002, there has been an explosion of huge new casinos moving in: Sands, the Venetian, Wynn’s, and MGM Mirage all have a huge presence here. And not unlike Las Vegas the new mega-resorts are a bit away from the older places and make them look pretty dowdy.

One of many enormous casinos in Macau. This was the Galaxy, a 2,200 room behemoth where we went one night for drinks.

One of many enormous casinos in Macau. This was the Galaxy, a 2,200 room behemoth where we went one night for drinks.

As a result of all this – driven largely by the mainland Chinese taste for gambling – it’s gotten pretty rich. In fact, measured by purchasing power parity (a concept that tries to even out economies based on differing price levels), Macau has the highest per capita income in the world, having recently passed Qatar. Now, we spent time walking around some of the non-touristy parts of Macau and there are lots and lots and lots of people who would not be described as well off by any standards, so I suspect that #1 ranking is a function of a few very, very wealthy people here.

This is more what most of Macau looks like

This is more what most of Macau looks like

Like Hong Kong, Macau was only recently reunited with China, having been ruled by the Portuguese since the mid-sixteenth century until turned over in late 1999; at that point it was the last European colony in Asia. As is the case in Hong Kong – at least in theory – Macau is part of China under the “one country, two systems” concept of Deng Xioping.

It turns out that unless you’re really into gambling (we’re distinctly not), there’s not much reason to spend a lot of time in Macau. It’s a fun mixture of Portugal and China, and we found one pretty darned good Portuguese restaurant. And the big casino hotels have some great restaurants; one building alone had two three-star Michelin restaurants. But three days there is more than enough. Now it’s off to Shanghai to meet my brother and his family for two weeks of exploring China.

We discovered some great Portuguese food for lunch once, at least

We discovered some great Portuguese food for lunch once, at least

This was an appetizer one night at a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant. The meal was great, but the space had the feel of being in a mall, which those big casinos essentially are.

This was an appetizer one night at a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant. The meal was great, but the space had the feel of being in a mall, which those big casinos essentially are.

We're not sure what we stumbled onto here, but there were a lot of people celebrating something

We’re not sure what we stumbled onto here, but there were a lot of people celebrating something

This was another celebration of some sort; something religious, we think

This was another celebration of some sort; something religious, we think

A Catholic cemetery in Macau

A Catholic cemetery in Macau

The massive, glitzy casinos make the older generation casinos look pretty small and dowdy

The massive, glitzy casinos make the older generation casinos look pretty small and dowdy

And yes, you can get good cocktails in Macau!

And yes, you can get good cocktails in Macau!