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All posts for the month July, 2025

Taking a little rest after climbing up, up, up above the whole valley around Lake Grasmere

After two weeks in magical Scotland we crossed the border again into England’s beautiful Lake District. Our first three-night stop there was in the countryside outside the tiny village of Chapel Stile, not far from the pretty town of Ambleside.

Life does not move too fast in the English countryside. We spent most of our time walking and hiking and looking at bright green scenery under mostly gloomy skies. And sometimes the sun would peek out a bit and make the whole landscape beautiful in a different way. It’s an incredibly picturesque land of lakes and hills and stone walls and lots and lots of sheep. Which I take too many pictures of.

Well deserved credit for all the institutions that had to come together to put a little public bathroom in the tiny village of Chapel Stile

One little challenge in hiking here is following the path. The trails aren’t marked very well, though we did have some very detailed descriptions on paper of the hikes we took on. That’s all fine and good as long as you can manage to translate all the specialty outdoorsy terms that the English love to use. We were constantly on the lookout for such things as pulls, cairns, knolls, gills, spurs, fells, cols, bridleways, and metalled lanes.

One other activity that consumes a bit of one’s time in the Lake District is trying to find some decent food. We all know that the British are not famed for their culinary achievements, though we manage to sniff out some great restaurants most of the time. That challenge gets a lot harder in tiny little towns. It’s hard to find more than pub food, which is almost shockingly breaded, heavy, and unhealthy. To make things worse, we happened to be in Ambleside on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday nights. And for some cruel reason, the few real “restaurants” only open Wednesday through Saturday.

The only exception seemed to be Luigi’s, a cute little 7-table Italian place. The food was really legitimately Italian, and the the people running it were so friendly that we went back two nights in a row and ordered almost the exact same stuff. It’s great to find a diamond in the rough!

Jim does manage to brighten up the landscape

Our fellow hikers are often the four-legged variety

In case you are wondering, that pile or rocks is a “cairn” that we were watching for

Old buildings on the edge of the village of Grasmere

After some pretty taxing hiking to Grasmere, I just gave in to the high carb pub choices. But that Guiness tasted amazing!

Sometimes the other hikers pushed us off the road completely for a few minutes

Did I mention that I love taking pictures of these guys?

The gorgeous landscape

They looked sad when we closed the gate behind us without letting them through

A lovely old stone bridge (with someone soaking in the water!)

These guys were watching us intently while they kept chewing their food

An evening out on the town in Ambleside

The lovely waitress as Luigi’s asked if she could take a picture for us. That was nice, but the background is so plain…

…so I asked ChatGPT to add some fun wallpaper. Too bad she also kind of mangled our heads in the process!

Someone was watching us from under this tree

One last cute sheep!

A street scene in Glasgow. Our first impression of the city was pretty unimpressive but we warmed up to it and started to appreciate the architecture after a while.

Fortunately, first impressions aren’t always accurate. We dropped off the rental car (Yippee!!) near the central train station in Glasgow and walked to our hotel. That view of the city was unimpressive. In fact, it reminded Mark of his experience some 33 years ago when he and his parents drove into the city, planning on spending the night. They looked around … and kept driving. We were similarly unimpressed at first.

Eventually, though, the city grew on us. It is, after all, the third largest city in the UK (after London and Birmingham) and in the Victorian era was known as the second city of the British Empire. And when you start looking around, maybe under a layer of tarnish, you start seeing the grandeur that once existed.

Here in the center of the city the buildings hint at the wealth that was once Glasgow

The stop in Glasgow was brief, though, just two nights, and much of it was spent on errands like going to the gym, doing laundry, and replacing some clothes that had misbehaved. With all that there was a little time for wandering, going to a museum, and eating.

This was it for Scotland and I have to say, it was everything I’d hoped for, very much its own unique place. Not sure if or when we’ll ever make it back, but I loved it here. Now it’s on down to the Lake District, another area I’ve long wanted to tour.

The University of Glasgow was stunning

Mark was mostly just wandering in Glasgow, wondering “What is that tower?” He walked towards it and discovered it was the University’s bell tower…

One highlight was Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum, a somewhat jumbled but fun mix of great international art, local Scottish art, and natural history museum

Another highlight would have been the Cathedral but for some reason it was closed while we were in town

Behind the cathedral, though, was a beautiful necropolis, final resting place of prominent Glaswegians (that’s what they’re called!)

More Necropolis

And one more. Can you tell Mark loved the place?

Speaking of prominent Glaswegians, this is a statue of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, a key architect and designer of the early 20th century. Strangely, this was not the only statue we saw that was capped by a traffic cone!

Among the less prominent Glaswegians, here’s Mark enjoying a great lunch at The Gannet, a small plates kind of place

At the train station getting ready to leave Glasgow. My raincoat is getting a lot of use on this trip…

My favorite picture: on the train heading to the Lake District. Reading my Kindle instead of stressed out behind the wheel of a car!

Interlochy Castle Hotel, our comfy home for a couple days

Fort William is a town on Loch Linnhe near the foot of Ben Nevis, which is the tallest peak in all of the British Isles. Given the proximity to Ben Nevis and a variety of other beautiful lakes, First William is considered a major destination for outdoor enthusiasts from all over the UK.

To be honest we did not come for those reasons. Our destination here was really Inverlochy Castle Hotel, a Victorian era baronial mansion turned hotel, where residents can lead a genteel life for a night or two. And it’s just as well that we weren’t hellbent on views of Ben Nevis, since the fog and clouds kept it pretty well hidden for the duration of our two-night stay.

This grand home was built in 1863 by William Scarlett, 3rd Baron Abinger, just a few miles from the original Inverlochy Castle, a 13th century castle that now lies in ruins. Ten years later, Queen Victoria spent a week here, declaring, “I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot.” In 1944 the place was purchased by the Canadian entrepreneur who had founded the nearby Ben Nevis distillery. His son inherited the mansion and turned it into a hotel in 1969.

We did a bit of hiking here but mostly savored the special thrill of staying in a glorious estate and enjoying its beautiful drawing rooms and dining rooms. It was a very pleasant way to break up a fairly long journey from Skye to Glasgow.

The hiking trails led to places where one might have seen the peak of Ben Nevis but for the clouds

Super tall woods on parts of the path

The main lounge at the castle, a nice please to have tea and read

Jim enjoys feeling like lord of the manor for a bit

Hiking through the woods

Watching the sheep from our room

Lovely moody weather keeps the mountain peak a mystery

Jim checks out the menu for our fancy dinner at the castle

We don’t do dessert much, but here at the castle it’s pretty nice

A big pile of mussels and lobster at a more casual lunch place in town

Part of the castle glows in the very late sunset here

Animal pic!