Here we are at Damoy Point on Weincke Island. The hut in back of us was once the southernmost air terminal waiting room, used by researchers coming and going though it is no longer in use. And note the snow falling. Here we are in the middle of the southern summer and we were regularly getting these beautiful light snowfalls.
We had two more days along the Antarctic peninsula and then two days across the infamous Drake Passage to finish this 17-day loop in the deep south. The scenery has been simply spectacular, unlike anything we’ve ever experienced before. We would just be in awe over and over again as one iceberg or glacier-clad mountain would pass by. The beauty of this region has been everything we could have hoped for.
The weather has been pretty great too. The expedition crew tell us that it’s really unusual to not have a single excursion canceled because of bad weather but we’ve been able to make every landing that was planned. Over these last two days there were two real highlights. First was something over an hour of sea kayaking. You dress in a pretty intensive wet suit – flipping in a kayak is always a possibility – and then off you go, maybe 14 of us with a couple guides. Just being that close to the water and ice was very cool. And no, neither we nor any of our ship mates flipped though I was a little intimidated by just how unstable we were out there.
Here we are trying desperately not to capsize
The other highlight was a zodiac tour we did in some strait between Antarctic islands. There were a bunch of interesting icebergs, a bunch of penguins, and even a few seals. The area was just teaming with whales though. For most of the hour-plus we were out you’d see a whale here and there, sometimes swimming with maybe their back showing, occasionally going into a deep dive and showing its fluke.
As we were heading back to the ship, though, seemingly done with the adventure, the back of a whale suddenly appeared just a little in front of us, closer than we’d ever been to a whale; the driver immediately cut the engine. The whale disappeared for a couple of seconds but then leaped out of the water – breaching, it’s called. And then he (she?) repeated it two or three more times though the later ones were somewhat further from our zodiac. Truly awe inspiring. Even our zodiac driver, who spends most of his life in polar regions, said he’s never been so close to a breaching whale.
This was simply amazing, awe inspiring in the best way. It’s worth noting that while I caught the breaching whale on my camera this shot was taken by Lloyd, our Australian friend. He just captured it perfectly.
The final challenge for the cruise was the Drake Passage, the 500-mile waterway that separates Antarctica from South America. It is often considered the most treacherous passage on earth, with waves sometimes reaching 40 feet; when it’s rough it’s known as the Drake Shake. But it can be calm and then is known as the Drake Lake. Well, our crossing wasn’t exactly a lake but it was way closer to that than the monster seas that are possible here. On balance I suppose that’s a good thing, though I have to admit I was looking forward to a little excitement.
What Antarctic blog would be complete without pictures of penguins? Our whale-watching zodiac cruise included a little intermission entertainment, watching this cute penguin leaping out of the water trying to get up on the iceberg with his friends. This leap failed but he did eventually make it.
And thus ends our Antarctica cruise. Good food, lots of time to read, some great expeditions, stunning scenery, more whales than I’d dreamed of seeing, and a LOT of penguins. I’m ready to be back on dry land again though and particularly eager to not listen to the captain’s announcements any more – Mark & I just find him super annoying. To say the least, he’s not nearly as amusing as he thinks he is.
From here now it’s off to Explora El Chaltén for six nights of hiking and whatever else you do in Patagonia.
Water, ice, rocks. A lot of that down here.
Gorgeous shapes and colors
I thought this looked like a dog’s head but the Australians said it was a kangaroo
Mile after mile looking like this
And this
The blue ice was pretty impressive too
In case you don’t recognize him, that’s Mark in the front of the kayak with water and ice all around us
More kayaking
Our kayaks being readied for us
A very hazy sun peaking through. This is what qualifies as really good weather down here.
Fiona and Lloyd. He’s taken several of the best pictures of us (and the whale…).
Me and Fiona
Lloyd, Mark, Fiona, & Jim
Me and Mark on the zodiac
Looks like he’s skiing but those are just hiking poles. Decidedly useful when going down steep, icy hills.
A penguin! And snow!
More penguins, more iceberg. Note the bird standing watch at the top of that column.
And another penguin trying – and failing – to leap onto the iceberg
Two whales there, one diving and showing its fluke
This was mostly what we saw of the whales
This was my somewhat inferior shot
Le Lyrial at rest while we’re out watching whales
And finally, Lloyd’s portrait of me!