Mark in front of Bath’s Royal Crescent, built of Bath Stone in the late 18th century and considered among the best Georgian architecture in the country
We loved Bath, the only city in England that is a World Heritage Site in its entirety. Founded by the Romans in the first century AD at the site of natural hot springs, the town grew as the Romans built a temple and then an increasingly complex bathing complex over the next 300 years. When the Western Roman Empire collapsed in the fifth century, though, the bath complex fell into disrepair and eventually disappeared entirely under rising water and silt.
The town continued to limp along and by the late 7th century first a convent and then a monastery was founded there. In 973 (so nearly 100 years before William the Conqueror) Edgar was crowned as the first King of the English in the monastery; there had been local kings before that but he was the first to claim jurisdiction over all of England. Thus during her long reign Elizabeth II came to Bath to celebrate 1,000 years of English royalty.
Stained glass representation of Edgar being crowned King of All England in the Bath Abby
And time went on. In the 12th century the abbey was rebuilt and significantly enlarged, and then plans were underway for yet another major refurbishment in the 16th century when – whoops! – Henry VIII took over the Church of England, declared his independence from the Pope, closed monasteries like the one in Bath, and took their wealth. The Abbey was left to rot.
Eventually, in no small part to the help of Elizabeth I, the Abbey was resurrected and refit in much the form it stands today. It is still known as an Abbey, though technically abbeys are the home of monks or nuns, none of which are to be found there today.
The Abbey is particularly known for the fan vaulting seen here
Bath really began to flourish in the 18th and 19th century as the supposed health benefits of the hot springs brought large numbers of tourists to the town. The local postmaster, Ralph Allen, was so good at his job that he became postmaster for areas all the way up to the Scottish border and into Wales. With the wealth from that position he started buying up quarries where Bath Stone had a distinctive honey color. That stone gives much of Bath an amazing beauty today.
At the same time the old Roman baths, which had silted and covered up for over a millennium, were rediscovered and, over many decades, excavated. Today there is a great museum at the site of the old baths with really good explanations of what used to be there and displays to help you translate the ruins of today into the glory of nearly 2,000 years ago.
Ruins of the old Roman baths
So there was a lot to enjoy about Bath – great history, beautiful architecture, really good food. And great weather. We continue to be extraordinarily lucky weather-wise: no rain to speak of, no great heat or humidity, just pleasant temperatures all the time.
Oh, and one other way we’re lucky. We took the train from Cardiff to Bath, but figured we would have to get a car again for the next few legs of our journey. Instead we figured out how to get most of the way to our next stop by train and then found a car service to take us the rest of the way. It seems as though that’s going to work for the rest of the trip so … no more driving. Yay!
The Pulteney Bridge spanning the River Avon is one of only four in the world remaining with shops on both sides spanning the entire length of the bridge. I was confused the first day or so we were in Bath because I knew we crossed the river to get to our hotel from the city center but I never saw the river….
More of the Abbey
And odd feature of the Abbey are the angels climbing to heaven on Jacob’s Ladder
A small section of The Circus, what we would call a residential circle. The four sections of the circle, separated by incoming streets, are all this same beautiful Georgian architecture from the late 18th century. What really made it spectacular though were the enormous trees in the center of the circle.
The head of Sulis Minerva, the goddess worshipped by Romans at the baths
Part of the 2,000-year-old plumbing to maintain water levels in the baths
One of my favorite parts of Bath was the Kennet and Avon Canal with its tow path perfect for walking, running, and biking
These narrow boats were lined up for miles along the canal with odd people living and vacationing on the canal. Some of them looked relatively nice but some were really trashy.
Mark and I did a big loop hike one day up above Bath, parts on forested trails like this…
And parts with big open fields like this
And some great views above Bath
Here I am early in the hike at Sham Castle, so called because it is in fact a sham, just the facade of a castle built for ornamentation
Wildlife on the hike
Just a beautiful country estate
I took a big walk one day up to Prior Park, once the home of Ralph Allen, the postmaster who got really rich. That’s his home way at the top of the hill with great views of Bath. More importantly from his perspective was that all of Bath could see his property built of Bath Stone which he was eager to sell.
Allen’s Palladian Bridge, designed by the Italian architect Andrea Palladio, is one of only four in the world (three in England and one in St. Petersburg, if you were wondering…)
The view of Bath from Allen’s mansion
Lamb at La Terra, a beautiful Italian restaurant in Bath
And then there was our final dinner at The Herd, a well-reviewed steak house. We got there and the restaurant was two floors below the entrance level, but because of the hills of Bath it was at street level down there too. The problem was that the dining room was small with walls of old stone, and there was a group of 10 or 12 thirty-somethings who were incredibly loud. We asked if there was a table outside and they accommodated us … on this weird street with industrial fans blowing on us at an entrance to a tunnel that may in fact have led to the Gates of Hell. We didn’t investigate, but we had a pleasant and quiet meal there.
