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Clockwise starting with me that’s Laura, Mark, Jeanne, Jamal, and younger Jamal on C&O Canal’s Billy Goat Trail

We’re back in the States for a couple of months, mostly for a pretty grim reason: I have an 11-year-old great-nephew in the closing stages of terminal cancer. So we’re on our way to Duluth for what is likely a final visit. First, though, we had to get back to North America. One of the joys of traveling the way we do is that when we decide to change continents we can hunt around for both departure and arrival cities and just take the best option. In this case the best option was to fly into Dulles Airport outside DC which is perfect, since Mark’s sister Jeanne and her family, along with our great friend Laura and her family, all live in the area.

And then – notwithstanding the otherwise sad reason for our visit and the fact that we’d just flown 12 time zones from Bangkok (yes, that’s the worst jet lag you can get) – we had an absolutely wonderful three-day visit. Part of the fun was just hanging out, spending time with our niece and nephew, both of whom are growing up into interesting humans. Who would have guessed?

Just hanging out, reading the comics for the first time in maybe 10 years. I didn’t know Mark took this until I saw it here but somehow I think it’s cool.

And then there were the excursions. First up was a guided tour of the National Gallery, one of the Smithsonian museums in DC. Laura was selected for a two-year training program as a docent there and while she’s not yet finished the training it was still really interesting to have her take us around and show us several of her favorite pieces, hearing the back story that you’d never know without an expert guide. Unlike too many guides she didn’t just drone on and on so it was really a wonderful opportunity for us.

Jeanne & Laura exhibiting Hans Haacke’s “Condensation Wall” in the National Gallery. It’s just glass and moisture, with the shapes and intensity shifting throughout the day as the sunlight and temperature changes.

Another highlight was a little dinner party for what seemed like 40 people or so that Jeanne just threw together. Her family, Laura’s family, us, their friends Mike & Basil and Mike, even our old, old friend Grace and her husband Mark. So less than 40, but still a big crowd, and she just threw it together like it was nothing after we’d been out for a hike during the afternoon. Impressive.

The spread Jeanne threw together in her spare time. There’s hummus, beans, roasted veggies, kibbeh, fish, rice … and plenty of wine and cocktails.

Grace & Mark were happy to be reunited at Jeanne’s dinner party

Speaking of meals, we went to two really good restaurants in Vienna, both of which were notable. First up was Basin’s on Church, a nice restaurant with great cocktails where Jeanne had taken us once before. The difference this time was that her son Jamal is now the host there, acting all like a young adult and everything. The food was quite good but what really struck us is just how big the portions are. We’ve noticed before – and continue to be amazed as our U.S. travels continue – that portion sizes in American restaurants are just huge. Big.

At any rate, there was one other great restaurant experience, too, this one at a Vienna restaurant called Vienna. Set in a completely unassuming suburban office building just a couple miles from Jeanne’s house the restaurant was nothing short of spectacular. Not at all what one might fear from a suburban restaurant in a random setting, I thought it was great.

And finally, then there was a nice hike along the C&O Canal outside DC. Young Jamal had recently been there and showed us the Billy Goat Trail on a beautiful sunny late winter day. Very nice way to get outside a bit before Jeanne’s dinner party.

Laura, Mark, Jeanne, and the two Jamals along Billy Goat Trail

And then just that fast it was time to leave. From here we’re visiting Mark’s parents in Michigan before moving on to Duluth to see my family. We have a couple months in the States and so far it’s started out pretty great.

Jeanne, Jamal, & Laura take a break from hiking

Jeanne & here baby!

A picture of me and Mark that’s not a selfie!

And one that is a selfie

Me & Laura

Me & Jeanne on a great little trail behind her house that provide me with a few hours of good walking

And finally, Grace, Mark, & Laura. They were all friends back at the University of Michigan and then, pre-marriage for all of us, we were roommates in DC. Old friends are always the best friends.

Le Bouchon is certainly one of our favorite restaurants in Bangkok. Just a tiny little space right off one of the city’s most notorious sex districts, you walk in and are immediately transported to France. Small space, dark, tables close together, and mostly great food. Sadly, I had steak tartare that wasn’t really all that great. Mark’s meal, though, and my escargot starter, were all great.

Yup, Bangkok again. This time just two days as we transition from Koh Samui to winter in the U.S. No need to do any intense shopping this time in Bangkok as we can do all the shopping we want in a couple days. So this was just an opportunity to go back to our favorite restaurants and hang out a bit. Thus not much to add here except a few pictures.

Next stop: Dulles National Airport!

Our favorite lunch spot is the unfortunately named Tummy Yummy. The name is silly but the food, service, and space are all great.

That’s me, just outside Tummy Yummy

With nothing really to do I spent more time than usual in Lumpini Park, a big green space in the center of the city. To see this you’d think Bangkok is some pretty, perhaps even slightly green city. You’d be wrong, but this was still a lovely view. The sad part is that with mid-day temperatures in the mid-90s it’s just too damned hot to enjoy it that much. Of course, as I would stroll through the park or sit and read for a while, I’d see guys jogging around the park. I like running as much as the next guy but not when it is in the 90s for God’s sake.

Mark at the Beach Bar in Patong, It wasn’t on the beach but it was fun, friendly, and reasonably innocent

After all that time in Northern Thailand it was time to head to the beach. Our favorite Thai beach is Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui but we decided to give the island of Phuket (pronounced poo-ket, not like some obscenity…) a chance. Phuket is Thailand’s biggest island and arguably its most famous. We’d been here once before, back in 2009 and we enjoyed it but we weren’t crazy about it. We figured we’d see if maybe we’d missed something.

Not really.

We stayed on the southwestern part of the island, just outside what Lonely Planet calls the “sin city of Patong”, home to go-go girls and hangovers. The “just outside” part is important: our hotel, another Le Meridién, was maybe a mile-and-a-half out of town. More importantly it had what was effectively a private beach. That is, beaches are public in Thailand and on most beaches there is a steady parade of locals trying to sell stuff. Thus the beach at Le Meridién isn’t technically private. Because there are natural cliffs on either side of the property, though, it is effectively impossible to get there except through the hotel. That – along with gobs of gorgeous white sand – made the beach pretty damned good.

Our beach. Take my word for it, the Andaman Sea is just outside the photo. It’s 7:00 AM and lots of chairs are already reserved for the day even though there will be no one sitting in them for hours still.

On the other hand there’s one thing I often hate about a place like this: the race to get down to the beach (or pool; our preference is the beach) early in the morning to reserve your chair. I just think hotels shouldn’t allow it, but they do. For us it’s not that big a deal once we learn the “rules” – we’re morning people anyway. So if I went down to the gym to run on the treadmill at 6:30 AM (it normally doesn’t open until 7:00 but they’d open it early for me just because I like to work out early; very nice touch) there wasn’t any problem getting chairs for us. Still, it’s a lousy system.

Most of our days, then, were just hanging out at the beach. For dinner we would take a taxi into town; it wasn’t that far but in the dark with no sidewalks it didn’t feel safe to walk. Taxis were surprisingly expensive for Thailand – almost $10 for the mile-and-a-half ride – but they were also usually pretty comfy. One night we ended up in this pimped-out van, complete with bar and huge leather seats. Very strange.

A couple of shots of our pimped-out van

Once we got to town it was kind of what you’d expect for a big party destination. With the help of TripAdvisor, though, we were able to find a nice Georgian restaurant (who’d have guessed that??) and later a good Thai place. And using our own intrepid skills found a fun little bar with cute bartenders who didn’t skimp on the pours. Nothing to complain about.

There were several tiny bars like this one in a small, semi-outdoor area on the edge of Patong. Friendly, decent pours, a fun place to watch the crazy world and chat with some of the crazy people in it.

On the other hand, though, nothing to convince us to come back either. From here it’s off to Koh Samui, by far our favorite Thai island, perhaps our favorite beach destination in the world. First, though, we had to get off Phuket, which required a taxi to the airport and then a reasonably short flight. The airport, though, was insanely crowded. Amusingly Mark had just emailed me a Bloomberg article about the impact Chinese tourists are having on increasingly overcrowded tourist destinations – a topic of some common observation on our part – that had Phuket as the cover photo. And here we were living and breathing in an absolutely, unbelievably packed airport. It was crazy.

Eventually, after only maybe an hour’s delay, we managed to get out of Phuket. Next stop Koh Samui, a place that is genuinely worth getting excited about.

The scene at Phuket airport. Insanely crowded.

On a calmer note, this is the view across the pool at breakfast. Definitely nothing to complain about.

Thai green curry with chicken and some stir-fried morning-glory. One of the things I like about Thailand – one of the little things – is how easy it is to get ice-cold soda water like that bottle in the picture.

And finally, like any beach party destination, Bob Marley is big here. Big.