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Paro and the Tiger’s Nest

Posted by Mark Sullivan on June 17, 2015
Posted in: Bhutan. 1 comment

The Tiger's Nest clings to a cliff 3,000 feet above the Paro valley floor.

The Tiger’s Nest clings to a cliff 3,000 feet above the Paro valley floor.

Our last stop in Bhutan was Paro, home of the country’s most iconic landmark, the Tiger’s Nest. This group of Buddhist temples is perched on the side of a cliff 3,000 feet above the valley floor. When we set out to climb up in the early morning, it was draped in mist far above us and simply looked impossible to get to.

Lots of visiting Indian army members wanted pictures with me for some reason.

Lots of visiting Indian army members wanted pictures with me for some reason.

The hike up was stunning. We encountered a nice variety of landscapes, pleasant viewing spots, and lots and lots of dogs. Other climbers included a variety of tourists, pilgrims, families, monks, and a lot of Indians. The Indians were disproportionately men in their 30s or so. We eventually learned that they were part of an army entourage conducting joint Indian-Bhutanese military exercises. And for some reason, they all seemed to want to take their pictures with me.

When riding our bikes in Bhutan we encounter lots of cute kids who like to run along side us and prove that they can run as fast as we can bike.

When riding our bikes in Bhutan we encounter lots of cute kids who like to run along side us and prove that they can run as fast as we can bike.

Our two weeks in Bhutan have been a singular experience. We rarely encounter a culture that feels so cut off from the rest of the world (in a good way). It’s cut off by rugged mountain ranges, sharp limits on tourism, and a strong cultural identity that feels impervious to change.

This culture, with its distinctive architecture, beautiful valleys, traditional clothing, and deep Buddhist roots, is less marred by crass commercialism and ugly development than any populated place we’ve been. There is a lot of talk about Gross National Happiness in Bhutan. I don’t know if the Bhutanese are really happier than anyone else, but it was fascinating to see people living as if in a simpler era.

The Tiger's Nest looked impossible to get to from the valley below.

The Tiger’s Nest looked impossible to get to from the valley below.

Like everywhere else in Bhutan, the climb featured lots and lots of dogs.

Like everywhere else in Bhutan, the climb featured lots and lots of dogs.

At the highest point of our climb, we were rewarded with a look down on the Tiger's Nest.

At the highest point of our climb, we were rewarded with a look down on the Tiger’s Nest.

This ruined dzong (fort) was just a short walk and climb from our hotel.

This ruined dzong (fort) was just a short walk and climb from our hotel.

The gorgeous view from the ruined dzong

The gorgeous view from the ruined dzong

Another hike in the Paro area

Another hike in the Paro area

Another cute kid

Another cute kid

Can't take too many rice terrace pics, can you?

Can’t take too many rice terrace pics, can you?

Jim gets very excited by rice terraces.

Jim gets very excited by rice terraces.

One last picture of the Tiger's Nest

One last picture of the Tiger’s Nest

Chicago Again

Posted by Mark Sullivan on February 11, 2015
Posted in: USA. Leave a Comment

A celebration and an haute cuisine adventure at Spiaggia -- Todd, Chris, Shawn-Laree, Mark, and Jim

A celebration and an haute cuisine adventure at Spiaggia — Todd, Chris, Shawn-Laree, Mark, and Jim

From Guadalajara we caught a direct flight to Chicago for the last stop of our 5 1/2-month stint in North America. Before heading to Bangkok for a new series of adventures in Asia, we spent two days in the Windy City celebrating an important milestone in the lives of old friends, Chris Sterling and Todd Vitale.

My friendship with Chris goes back to our freshman year in college nearly 32 years ago. On February 7 Chris and Todd celebrated 25 years together in the place where it all began. They met at Spiaggia, the spectacular Italian restaurant, Chicago landmark, and favorite dining spot of Barack and Michelle Obama. We were honored to join them and our friend Shawn-Laree O’Neil for an incredible dinner that night — at the restaurant where Chris, Todd, and Shawn-Laree all worked together back then as well.

On our second night we switched gears and met Chris and Todd for dinner at Girl and the Goat for a different kind of experience on the hot Chicago dining scene. This casual place serves innovative small plates and is bursting with life. Chris had to work to get seats for us, even on a Sunday night. Heck, our taxi driver even asked how on earth we managed to get into the place! But best of all we were joined by our friends Nina Fernandez and Sonia Arroyave. There is something about Nina and Sonia: When you get together with them, you cannot possibly not have fun.

Since we are barely equipped for winter weather we lucked out in Chicago, where our two days were warmer than usual for early February. But that was enough cold for us anyway, so we are headed back to warmer climes. We’re flying to Bangkok, and we intend to spend the next 5 months traveling toward, in, and around the Himalayas — through Vietnam, China, Bhutan, Nepal, and northern India.

For our big night out in Chicago, Jim and I had to dig out both the dressiest and the warmest clothes we own.

For our big night out in Chicago, Jim and I had to dig out both the dressiest and the warmest clothes we own.

Another memorable dinner at Girl and the Goat -- Chris, Todd, Mark, Nina, Sonia, and Jim

Another memorable dinner at Girl and the Goat — Chris, Todd, Mark, Nina, Sonia, and Jim

All bundled up again to say goodbye to great friends

All bundled up again to say goodbye to great friends

Playa Langosta

Posted by Mark Sullivan on December 17, 2014
Posted in: Costa Rica. Leave a Comment

Dinner in town with Alex and Vlad

Dinner in town with Alex and Vlad

After eight wet days in the Costa Rican interior, we were good and ready to head back down to the coast for more sun and higher temperatures. It felt like everything we owned was damp.

So we returned to Tamarindo, where we spent a few leisurely days warming up and drying out. Then we picked up our friends Vlad and Alex from the Liberia airport and settled into a nice little rental house for a week.

A couple weeks ago, Jim and I invested a day to go out and look at rental properties for Vlad and Alex’s visit. We settled on a three-bedroom house with a pool at Playa Langosta, just a twenty minute walk from the center of Tamarindo. We all really like the place. Jim has cooked up some great breakfasts, and has now cooked dinner for the first time in 19 months. Tonight Alex is inspired to cook and seems to be working on a real feast.

All four of us have been in a pretty relaxed mood, eschewing any plans for exotic activities, and sticking instead to a pretty standard beach bumming routine. The area around Tamarindo boasts a wide variety of beaches, each with a radically different personality. So far we’ve spent each day at a new one, getting into whatever vibe fits. And not doing too much else until it’s happy hour back at our wonderful little house.

Lunch at Lola's, the stylish beach shack named after a pig at beautiful Playa Avellanas

Lunch at Lola’s, the stylish beach shack named after a pig at beautiful Playa Avellanas

Vlad and Mark at Lola's

Vlad and Mark at Lola’s

Jim, Vlad, and Alex take in the gorgeous turquoise waters at Playa Conchal

Jim, Vlad, and Alex take in the gorgeous turquoise waters at Playa Conchal

Happy hour before another great dinner at our place in Playa Langosta

Happy hour before another great dinner at our place in Playa Langosta