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Molly and Jim enjoy the lush scenery of the River Raisin

Molly and Jim enjoy the lush scenery of the River Raisin

From Minnesota we headed to Michigan, where my mom and dad were eager to play host for the long Labor Day weekend. As usual, their house in LaSalle was well stocked with great food — thick steaks, smoked pork chops, incredible salads, homemade steak tartare, smoked fish, and tons of wonderful summer garden vegetables. My dad also plays a pretty mean bartender — crafting the Manhattans by which we measure other Manhattans, usually poorly, around the world.

Fortunately, we had help offsetting all of this great eating with a bit of exercise. My brother Pat, sister-in-law Jenny, and nieces Lydia and Molly kept us busy with some really pleasant outdoor adventures. We hiked trails in Toledo’s Wildwood Preserve and Monroe’s Sterling State Park. We also spent an afternoon canoeing a long stretch of the River Raisin up in Dundee. Though I grew up around that river, I can’t think of a time when I ever really got so close to it. For most of our journey, the scenery was lush and green, and I felt like we could just as easily be paddling through Cambodia or someplace as exotic.

While our visits to LaSalle are always great in culinary terms, our timing was ideal this time as we hit the tail end of tomato season. Tomatoes from my dad’s garden are unlike any tomatoes I’ve ever had anywhere else in America – or most of the world. In the 25 years I lived on the east coast I never found tomatoes as meaty and sweet and deep red as those. They are one of the most delicious things in the world, and I think maybe only Michigan dirt can make them this way.

My hard-working canoeing partner, Lyda

My hard-working canoeing partner, Lyda

My dad grills up some incredibly delicious smoked pork chops.

My dad grills up some incredibly delicious smoked pork chops.

Steak tartare is quite a staple for us when traveling in France, but it's never occurred to me to have it at home. We were pretty impressed when my dad whipped up his own version with beautiful accompaniments.

Steak tartare is quite a staple for us when traveling in France, but it’s never occurred to me to have it at home. We were pretty impressed when my dad whipped up his own version with beautiful accompaniments.

Nothing says summer like tomatoes from Michigan!

Nothing says summer like tomatoes from Michigan!

Molly, Lydia, Jenny, and Jim after a long haul down the River Raisin

Molly, Lydia, Jenny, and Jim after a long haul down the River Raisin

Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

We decided to spend almost a week in Bordeaux, and so far the place is living up to my high expectations. Bordeaux combines so much of what we love about European cities — monumental architecture, great city planning, and lots of urban energy.

Horsing around

Horsing around

The city wraps around a smooth curve of the Garonne river and it is really loaded up with 19th century neo-classical architecture. Huge swaths of the city center have been pedestrianized, and the urban core has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The streets are teeming with public art, street performances, and people enjoying it all.

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

Yesterday we took a train to the seaside town of Arcachon, where we rented bikes and rode out to a sand dune called the Dune de Pilat. Even knowing that this was the largest sand dune in Europe, I wasn’t really expecting all that much. I mean, what’s the big deal about a hill of sand between the beach and the shore? You see that in lots of beach areas.

But once we get there it was pretty incredible — a truly massive pile of sand with a life of its own. It apparently moves several meters a year, slowly swallowing up the forest inland. It’s already taken out some roads and buildings as well, including a hotel. After an arduous climb to the top we were rewarded with incredible views — and our first glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean since we left Boston!

Lots of cool public art

Lots of cool public art

Today we are embarking on another day trip out of town to encounter some of what Bordeaux is really known for — wine. I’m intrigued whether an all-day visit to wine country here will enhance my relationship to Bordeaux wines, which I have never really understood. This region produces the most celebrated and expensive wines in the world, yet I have rarely (including in the last three days here) tasted a Bordeaux wine that did not taste to me like licking a Band-Aid.

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we'd really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we'd have taken a taxi.

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we’d really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we’d have taken a taxi.

With two weeks left before we catch a flight from Paris to visit family and friends in the US, we left Barcelona to make a pass through Southwestern France. Our first stop was the spectacular medieval fortress town of Carcassonne. I’ve wanted to see Carcassonne since hearing my parents rave about it years ago.

This was just a two-night stay, and we spent a great deal of our time here doing some necessary travel planning. But we were also pretty immersed in the medieval ‘feel’ of the place since we stayed in a gorgeous hotel inside the walls of the hilltop fortress known as La Cité. Not only was the hotel itself fantastic, but they upgraded us to one of their best suites. With beautiful views of the castle and the ramparts of Carcassonne, our elegant living room made an ideal place to do our work and soak up the atmosphere. Next stop: Bordeaux.

The view from our living room

The view from our living room

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Our breakfast courtyard

Our breakfast courtyard