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The colorful streets of the Sardinian capital

The colorful streets of the Sardinian capital


After five days in beautiful, elite, expensive, magnificent Capri, we were actually looking forward to getting back to someplace ‘real’ again. So we ferried back to Naples and caught a flight to the Sardinian capital of Cagliari. And for a few days we got a great dose of the Sardinian version of ‘real’ — narrow streets colored by plenty of graffiti and laundry, sandy beaches with bright blue water, great stone walls dotted with palm trees and flowering jacarandas, and loads of fresh seafood. All of this is packed into a very pleasant city for strolling, people watching, and reading in the park.

We’ll spend 12 days altogether in Sardinia, probably traveling north along the western coast of the island — some of which we hope to do by bicycle. After that we’ll interrupt our island-hopping briefly to catch a flight to Rome so we can visit our friend Dara there. This wasn’t part of the plan until a few days ago, but if we can’t be spontaneous, who can?

Blooming jacarandas are spectacular against the stone walls of the old city

Blooming jacarandas are spectacular against the stone walls of the old city

An easy bus ride took us from the center of Cagliari to the wonderful sandy Poetto Beach

An easy bus ride took us from the center of Cagliari to the wonderful sandy Poetto Beach

Sea bass with olives!

Sea bass with olives!

More octopus

More octopus

A first-century Roman amphitheater looks down on the huge bank of cacti along one side of the botanical garden

A first-century Roman amphitheater looks down on the huge bank of cacti along one side of the botanical garden

The whole city slopes up from the Mediterranean toward the old walled city, so there are lots of steps -- and a little bit of graffiti

The whole city slopes up from the Mediterranean toward the old walled city, so there are lots of steps — and a little bit of graffiti

More stone walls, palm trees, jacarandas

More stone walls, palm trees, jacarandas

I take a lot of pictures to try to capture the streetlife of Naples, but the rarely turn out because the streets are so dark and cavernous -- but this turned out better than most

I take a lot of pictures to try to capture the streetlife of Naples, but the rarely turn out because the streets are so dark and cavernous — but this turned out better than most

After a quick week in Sicily we took an overnight ferry to Naples. So far on this adventure, Naples is the first city we’ve returned to after traveling to a whole different part of the world. (In other words, I’m not counting Bangkok, even though we were there four times during our winter in Southeast Asia.)

The brighter and sunnier streetlife of Sorrento

The brighter and sunnier streetlife of Sorrento

This is a very special place for us, since Jim spent time here in the navy, we spent a quarter century yearning to come here together, and then we finally visited last fall and fell in love with all its brashness.

Aside from walking around and marveling at the spectacle of life in vibrant Naples, we also got in a little culture. We took a nice tour of the magnificently restored Teatro di San Carlo, which is the oldest working opera house in the world. And today we took a train down to the beautiful resort town of Sorrento for lunch and a bit of exploration.

We’re only staying a couple days here on our way to a five-day visit to another worthy return destination, the incredible island of Capri.

We passed by the island of Capri on our way into Naples from Sicily for a little preview of our next stop

We passed by the island of Capri on our way into Naples from Sicily for a little preview of our next stop

Street art in Naples

Street art in Naples

This lady sort of typified Neapolitan balcony life; too bad I just missed her great hand gestures

This lady sort of typified Neapolitan balcony life; too bad I just missed her great hand gestures

One bird to the other: "Nice view, huh?"

One bird to the other: “Nice view, huh?”

Jim examines the magnificent Teatro di San Carlo

Jim examines the magnificent Teatro di San Carlo

We love a lot about Naples, but the food is at the top of the list, such as this roast goose with carrot sauce

We love a lot about Naples, but the food is at the top of the list, such as this roast goose with carrot sauce

...not to be outdone by this fish with Sicilian accompaniments

…not to be outdone by this fish with Sicilian accompaniments

Jim makes friends with some weird lemon guy

Jim makes friends with some weird lemon guy

The stunning coastal scenery below Taormina

The stunning coastal scenery below Taormina


From Catania we took a bus an hour up the coast to Taormina, Sicily’s most upscale resort town. Taormina is perched high up on cliffs overlooking some gorgeous rocky outcrops linked together by beaches. Yesterday’s primary activity was a climb down, a few hours on the beach, and then a tough climb back up to town.

Even though Taormina is quite a climb up from those beaches, you can then look up and see the town of Castelmola lingering way up higher yet. So naturally today was dedicated to a climb up to Castelmola and coffee in a charming square. We were rewarded with spectacular views down to Taormina and across the straits of Messina to the coast of Calabria, the toe of mainland Italy.

Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that looming above everything is the menacing form of Mt. Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe.

The view from our balcony -- the Mediterranean to the left, Mount Etna to the right

The view from our balcony — the Mediterranean to the left, Mount Etna to the right

The hill town of Castelmola looking down on us

The hill town of Castelmola looking down on us

On the scenic climb up to Castelmola

On the scenic climb up to Castelmola

Pesce alla Messinese -- fish with olives, tomatoes, onions, capers

Pesce alla Messinese — fish with olives, tomatoes, onions, capers

Strolling through the public garden

Strolling through the public garden