It’s hard to believe our time in southern Italy has come to an end. When we started this visit with a four-day stop in Naples, we were utterly fascinated by the place. So after 5 weeks of island hopping in the Bay of Naples, touring Sicily, and biking through Apulia, we decided to end our visit with another four days in Naples.

That allowed us to correct two flaws from our first visit. We hadn’t managed to get to the famed Naples Archeology Museum, and we hadn’t quite made it to the spectacular ruins of Pompeii. I’d seen Pompeii in my European backpacking trip 29 years ago, but I probably appreciated it a little more this time. It’s incredible to see so much of a city that was buried in ash 2,000 years ago. And the museum in Naples is an amazing complement with its vast collection of mosaics and household objects from Pompeii and statuary from throughout antiquity.

But we especially just enjoyed wandering around in this utterly unique, chaotic, and colorful city. It teems with life. Every stereotype of Italy, good and bad, is on overdrive here. On the surface, Naples often looks surprisingly like a developing country; you could practically be in Egypt or Jamaica. We stayed right smack in the center of historic Naples, a vast area that feels a bit like a slum. But it’s a slum with Italian flair, overflowing with crumbling monuments, religious shrines, and endless culinary temptations.

So this morning we’ll board a fast train for Rome, where we’ll have just enough time for lunch before we head to the airport. And tomorrow morning we’ll land in Bangkok for a whole new chapter in this great adventure.

We are generally quite hostile to any form of group travel, so this week of bicycling with a group is unusual for us. Ordinarily we run screaming from the thought of being in any kind of group, we get irritated when we come across large groups clogging the streets or the museums, and we hate letting anyone else lead us around. For us half the fun of travel is making plans, figuring stuff out, and overcoming challenges. We have no interest in having someone else “make it easy” for us. We cherish our status as “independent” travelers, along with all the surprises, complications, and sudden changes of plans that can entail.

Nonetheless, we signed up for this week-long bike tour of Puglia almost a year ago — before we even knew we’d be on this long adventure! We got to know the company, Zephyr Adventures, a couple years ago when our friend Nathaniel invited us to hike the Inca Trail with him and his two siblings, Eve and Ben. Since Nathaniel and Ben knew and vouched for the quality of the company, and since you can’t do that journey without guides anyhow, we jumped at the chance. The quality of the experience was exceptional, and we’ve since been tempted to try out another adventure with Zephyr.

And they’ve come through for us again. The company is really focused on things we love — the activity (in this case biking), interesting places to stay, great food, good wine. They do a real minimum of things we hate — shepherding us around, talking at us, bureaucracy. The bike routes have been planned so well that everyone rides at their own leisure along spectacular paths, with just the amount of support you need if you run into trouble.

But most important, this outfit attracts a pretty great group of travelers who are fun to get to know — and have an impressive array of interests and talents. And this worked greatly to my benefit as I struggled with an highly unexpected and ill-timed muscle problem just as our tour was getting under way.

A few days before the group met I was starting to notice a peculiar discomfort in my back, shoulder, and one arm whenever I sat in a chair for a meal. It came on gradually, and didn’t seem like a huge deal, but it was weird. While sitting and eating I kept fidgeting to try to get more comfortable. Just before the bike trip it became worse, making me uncomfortable no matter what I was doing.

On our first scheduled day of biking, I was in pain almost constantly. That was an intro day with just a couple hours of riding to test out the bikes, so I went ahead, hoping that the bike wouldn’t hurt. My wishful thinking suggested it might help stretch me out and heal the problem. But no, riding was absolutely miserable. I was always highly uncomfortable, and sometimes the pain became intense. I was in constant pain afterward, wondering how on earth I was going to deal with four full days of riding ahead. Would I just keep suffering and deepening the injury? Or spend days riding in the van while everyone else enjoyed my bike trip? I felt like I would never be myself again.

Then my physical therapy team started to take shape. I met Bonnie, a nurse practitioner from La Crosse, Wisconsin, who talked me through the symptoms and gave me comforts I needed to relieve the pain — anti-inflamation pills stronger than my over-the-counter stuff and a heat pad that magically sticks to your skin and provides heat comfort for eight hours. That thing was like crack to me.

The next morning, as I was agonizing about what to do, John the physical therapist from Santa Rosa, California offered to talk through my problem and convinced me that riding for the day was the right thing to do. This was a treatable problem, and I wasn’t going to do myself intractable harm. Then, just before I got on my bike for the day, Rosie from Foster City, California, offered to physically check out the injured areas. She is licensed Rolfer, who checked out the muscles, quickly zoomed in on some of the trouble, and almost magically lifted some of the tension.

I’ve now completed two more full days of spectacular riding. I continue to have some discomfort on the bike, but it’s bearable, it’s getting better, and I’m no longer worried that I’m going to do irreparable harm by doing what we came here to do. It’s turning into a really fun week with a great group of people, thanks especially to my therapy team.