Asia

Beaches in Bali are all they are as beautiful as you would ever imagine

Beaches in Bali are all they are as beautiful as you would ever imagine

After a month in Malaysia, we flew from eastern Borneo through Kuala Lumpur to Bali. We aren’t exactly sure how we’re going to spend our time in Indonesia, but we know we’re meeting Bart and Ann and Wil in early April. Between now and then we’ll spend some time in Bali and probably some time in neighboring Lombok. We’ve considered trying to hop around the islands east of Lombok a bit, but we’ll probably take advantage of the luxury of time we have and just explore these two islands more fully.

Our first stop in Bali was Seminyak, an upscale tourist destination just north of Kuta, the main destination for Australian partyers. We’d intended to splurge a bit on a nice resort, but had no idea what kind of splurge it was going to be. We paid for the cheapest room they have and when we got there they upgraded us to the most expensive villa they have. It was really spectacular: a quarter acre or so, all walled in, private pool, fish ponds with beautiful lilies. If you have a fantasy of a lush resort in Bali, this was it.

One of four fish ponds on our property, with our private pool in the back. For the most part we couldn't think of good reasons to leave this little spot of heaven.

One of four fish ponds on our property, with our private pool in the back. For the most part we couldn’t think of good reasons to leave this little spot of heaven.

Our usually pristine pool was sometimes sullied by falling frangipani blossoms.

Our usually pristine pool was sometimes sullied by falling frangipani blossoms.

We have a few theories of what happened. Maybe it was pure random; we got there at a time when the entry level rooms were full and we were lucky. Or, maybe they see that Mark writes a lot of TripAdvisor reviews and they wanted to wow him. (Our reservations are always in his name. Computer databases like Sullivan a lot more than St. George.) Maybe they saw that this was our first stay at that particular upscale chain and hoped we would fall in love. It was also possible they thought we were a different Sullivan family; on checking in a few people welcomed us back and all that.

Whatever it was, it worked. Getting upgraded is a good thing; it was, simply, the most amazing and perfect place we’ve ever stayed. Ever. It’s the only time in my life I wanted to order room service for lunch. We could buy a bottle of wine in town (at a fraction of the price the hotel would charge), have salads delivered to the lanai out by the pool, and enjoy the most fabulous lunch ever. Now I start to understand why people have pools in their own houses….

Our view from breakfast at the world's greatest resort

Our view from breakfast at the world’s greatest resort

There were a ton of beautiful restaurants within walking distance of our hotel. This was my serving of rare tuna and was every bit as great as it looks.

There were a ton of beautiful restaurants within walking distance of our hotel. This was my serving of rare tuna and was every bit as great as it looks.

Then tragedy struck. OK, it wasn’t a tragedy, but it was painful. Getting into the shower on our third morning I slipped and crashed onto some marble ledge that separated the shower from the rest of the bathroom. It was just me being clumsy, but I really smacked onto the corner of the marble ledge hard. After an hour or so of trying to grit it out, I decided I had to see a doctor to see if I’d cracked something or ruptured something or whatever.

The hotel was great – with I assume visions of lawsuits swimming in their heads they couldn’t do enough. First they called a doctor to the room to make sure I could move safely, then they had a driver take us to an emergency room and had him wait until they were done. As it turns out it was nothing more than a painful bruise. They did x-rays and an ultrasound and found nothing unusual. Of course, they did give me a wonderful IV painkiller that I would like available on a more regular basis.

No posing here - this was just after they'd given me the IV painkiller. And indeed, I was not in much pain at this point!

No posing here – this was just after they’d given me the IV painkiller. And indeed, I was not in much pain at this point!

Two noteworthy things about the emergency room. First, the services were great. There was only the most minor waiting for treatment, the medical staff all spoke English, and I had every confidence they knew what they were doing. It was our first emergency room experience on this adventure and I can only hope future experiences will be that good.

Second, as with the travel clinic and dentist I visited in Bangkok, the cost was almost laughable compared to what I’d have been charged in the U.S. The doctor who came to the hotel charged me about $65 for her house call. The total bill at the emergency room – x-rays, ultrasound, IV, doctor’s care – came to a little over $200. I have a feeling you can’t get that kind of service anywhere in the U.S. for anywhere remotely close to that. And none of that “There’s no blood, so wait over there until we get around to you…”

So now we’ve moved south, down to a much smaller lodge on a big cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean, a place with morning yoga and macrobiotic options on the menu. The sun is setting as I write and it’s stunning. This seems as though it will be a good place to recover from the fall. Mark, in fact, is talking about making this our permanent winter home when we tire of traveling.

We took a five-hour boat ride through the South China Sea to Kota Kinabalu in eastern Malaysia

We took a five-hour boat ride through the South China Sea to Kota Kinabalu in eastern Malaysia

After two days in Brunei, it was back to civilization; we sailed to Kota Kinabalu, on the north coast of Borneo in the Malaysian state of Sabah. There’s plenty to like here: great views of the South China Sea, some nightlife, and markets. But mostly it was about climbing Mount Kinabalu which, at 13,435 feet, is the highest peak on Borneo and was Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We had great sunsets from our hotel

We had great sunsets from our hotel

Kota Kinabalu has the kind of market that we couldn't find with Lidd in peninsular Malaysia

Kota Kinabalu has the kind of market that we couldn’t find with Lidd in peninsular Malaysia

We went to a bar our first night with a fun live band and sat next to this cute Chinese woman and her husband/boyfriend. The crazy thing about chatting with them was that they're from Dalian. Never heard of it? Neither had we, yet it's a city of 6.1 million people, bigger than any U.S. city except New York. That's China!

We went to a bar our first night with a fun live band and sat next to this cute Chinese woman and her husband/boyfriend. The crazy thing about chatting with them was that they’re from Dalian. Never heard of it? Neither had we, yet it’s a city of 6.1 million people, bigger than any U.S. city except New York. That’s China!

Kinabalu is one of those reasonably high peaks that doesn’t require any specialized mountain climbing gear or experience; it’s just a long, steep climb. Typically you climb it in two stages. On day one you start at the park headquarters at 6,122 feet and climb six kilometers to a “lodge” at 10,730 feet. The next day you finish the climb up by going another 2.7 kilometers to the peak at 13,435 feet and then go all the way back to the park headquarters. In other words on the first day you climb 4,608 feet or nearly nine-tenths of a mile and the next day you go another 2,705 feet up and then the full 7,313 feet down.

Here’s the little secret of hikes like this: going down may be harder than going up. Going up isn’t easy by any stretch; it was a really tough climb. But going down was brutal, using leg muscles that you just really don’t use much. And going down over 7,300 feet in one morning was brutal. We’re bushed.

One peculiarity of the climb. They say the best time to get to the peak is at sunrise. So we were up at 2:00 AM (seriously) and after breakfast were on the trail by 3:00 AM. It took a little over two hours to get to the peak, all in pitch darkness, using headlamps like miners to find the way. Once we got there is was bitter cold and still dark but … it was pretty obvious that with that much fog we weren’t going to see a damned thing. So we waited until 5:45, when the sun was officially up, and headed back down.

Oh, you want to know how the lodge accommodations were for our abbreviated night’s sleep? Pretty basic. OK, really basic. A four-person dorm room with shared cold-water bathroom down the hall. And when Mark went to get something out of his knapsack that he’d set by the bed a cute little rat jumped out, having discovered his bag of cashews for the trail. Made for a great night’s sleep!

Still, there was some real beauty on the trail. Tomorrow we fly to Bali to spend the next six-plus weeks in Indonesia, meeting our old neighbors Bart & Ann & Wil at the end of that time. Here, then, are our last pictures from Borneo.

A view from relatively near the start of the climb. It would be the last clear view we would have.

A view from relatively near the start of the climb. It would be the last clear view we would have.

As we climbed we got into the cloud forest

As we climbed we got into the cloud forest

This was daybreak after we'd started the descent. The landscape up there was surreal.

This was daybreak after we’d started the descent. The landscape up there was surreal.

Mark near the peak. The hat and gloves and winter coat were needed. In fact, we needed more!

Mark near the peak. The hat and gloves and winter coat were needed. In fact, we needed more!

More of Mark and the great landscape

More of Mark and the great landscape

Our favorite rocks

Our favorite rocks

Brunei is the 22nd country we’ve visited on this adventure, a little country (400,000 people) with a big name (officially it’s “Nation of Brunei, Abode of Peace). It’s also a rich country, thanks to abundant oil and natural gas reserves; the International Monetary Fund ranks Brunei the fifth richest country in the world based on per capita GDP, and considers it a developed country.

Street signs are in both Arabic and Latin script. We were amused to note that they used Arabic instead of Roman numerals for Elizabeth II Street, even though Arabic doesn't use Arabic numerals....

Street signs are in both Arabic and Latin script. We were amused to note that they used Arabic instead of Roman numerals for Elizabeth II Street, even though Arabic doesn’t use Arabic numerals….

For us the most distinctive feature, though, is the fact that alcohol sales are banned under law. Egads! Fortunately you can bring a limited amount into the country, and the restaurant in our hotel allowed us to bring wine into the restaurant. (Interestingly they wouldn’t open the bottle themselves, nor did they charge a corkage fee, but they did bring us a a corkscrew.) As you might imagine, the absence of alcohol is probably related to an almost total lack of any nightlife or excitement in Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital and only city of consequence in the country. Oh yeah, one other notable feature: male homosexuality is punishable by up to 10 years in prison. There are, however, no restrictions on female homosexuality. Strange place.

The highlight of our brief two-day stop was a trip to Ulu Temburong National Park. Of the 210 square miles of the park, less than one square mile is open to tourists; the rest is reserved for scientific research. That tiny sliver, though, was pretty cool. In this case the journey is a big part of the joy – most of the trip is on a couple different boats up rivers in the middle of gorgeous rain forest. Then the main activity inside the park is an aluminum walkway through the jungle canopy. The views were amazing but I can assure you it’s not for those with a fear of heights. You’re way up there – nearly 200 feet above the forest floor – and you can feel the towers and walkway swaying. Lots and lots of steps to get there, but totally worth it.

We don't usually eat at hawker stalls, but since we weren't going to get wine with our first dinner anywhere, we ate here. For the two of us the chicken and gado gado came to $12. And it was good!

We don’t usually eat at hawker stalls, but since we weren’t going to get wine with our first dinner anywhere, we ate here. For the two of us the chicken and gado gado came to $12. And it was good!

The final boat trip to Ulu Temburong National Park. In front of Mark is Ki, a Portland, OR, native teaching English in Korea. In front of her is a Frenchman for whom personal hygiene was distinctly not a priority. Yuck!

The final boat trip to Ulu Temburong National Park. In front of Mark is Ki, a Portland, OR, native teaching English in Korea. In front of her is a Frenchman for whom personal hygiene was distinctly not a priority. Yuck!

Jim on part of the aluminum walkway. Mark took this from atop one of the towers.

Jim on part of the aluminum walkway. Mark took this from atop one of the towers.

Jim atop one of the towers. Definitely feeling on top of the world.

Jim atop one of the towers. Definitely feeling on top of the world.

Our selfie from the top of the highest tower

Our selfie from the top of the highest tower