Taking a little rest after climbing up, up, up above the whole valley around Lake Grasmere

After two weeks in magical Scotland we crossed the border again into England’s beautiful Lake District. Our first three-night stop there was in the countryside outside the tiny village of Chapel Stile, not far from the pretty town of Ambleside.

Life does not move too fast in the English countryside. We spent most of our time walking and hiking and looking at bright green scenery under mostly gloomy skies. And sometimes the sun would peek out a bit and make the whole landscape beautiful in a different way. It’s an incredibly picturesque land of lakes and hills and stone walls and lots and lots of sheep. Which I take too many pictures of.

Well deserved credit for all the institutions that had to come together to put a little public bathroom in the tiny village of Chapel Stile

One little challenge in hiking here is following the path. The trails aren’t marked very well, though we did have some very detailed descriptions on paper of the hikes we took on. That’s all fine and good as long as you can manage to translate all the specialty outdoorsy terms that the English love to use. We were constantly on the lookout for such things as pulls, cairns, knolls, gills, spurs, fells, cols, bridleways, and metalled lanes.

One other activity that consumes a bit of one’s time in the Lake District is trying to find some decent food. We all know that the British are not famed for their culinary achievements, though we manage to sniff out some great restaurants most of the time. That challenge gets a lot harder in tiny little towns. It’s hard to find more than pub food, which is almost shockingly breaded, heavy, and unhealthy. To make things worse, we happened to be in Ambleside on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday nights. And for some cruel reason, the few real “restaurants” only open Wednesday through Saturday.

The only exception seemed to be Luigi’s, a cute little 7-table Italian place. The food was really legitimately Italian, and the the people running it were so friendly that we went back two nights in a row and ordered almost the exact same stuff. It’s great to find a diamond in the rough!

Jim does manage to brighten up the landscape

Our fellow hikers are often the four-legged variety

In case you are wondering, that pile or rocks is a “cairn” that we were watching for

Old buildings on the edge of the village of Grasmere

After some pretty taxing hiking to Grasmere, I just gave in to the high carb pub choices. But that Guiness tasted amazing!

Sometimes the other hikers pushed us off the road completely for a few minutes

Did I mention that I love taking pictures of these guys?

The gorgeous landscape

They looked sad when we closed the gate behind us without letting them through

A lovely old stone bridge (with someone soaking in the water!)

These guys were watching us intently while they kept chewing their food

An evening out on the town in Ambleside

The lovely waitress as Luigi’s asked if she could take a picture for us. That was nice, but the background is so plain…

…so I asked ChatGPT to add some fun wallpaper. Too bad she also kind of mangled our heads in the process!

Someone was watching us from under this tree

One last cute sheep!

York Minster looming over the bustling streets of the old town

Next up was another two-night stop, this one the city of York. I found it a little odd to see all the signs referencing “York” without a “New” in the front but you wouldn’t really confuse the two cities. And somehow it felt appropriate to come to this namesake town after visiting the original Cambridge just a few days ago.

Founded by the Romans in AD 71 at the confluence of the Ouse and Foss Rivers, the city has a bit of history behind it. Perhaps most important, Constantius I was serving as Emperor here – one of the original four Tetrarchs when Emperor Diocletian decided the empire was too big for one man to rule. When Constantius died in AD 306, the troops quickly proclaimed his son Constantine his successor. Constantine, of course, went on to overthrow the tetrarchy, become sole emperor, convert to Christianity, and relocate the capital of the empire from Rome to Constantinople. In other words, he was kind of a big deal.

Some of the medieval city walls are still standing

And a more recent big deal is Judy Dench, perhaps England’s greatest actress, who was born here. Sadly though we didn’t see her.

The main tourist attraction here is the Cathedral, known as the York Minster. Begun in 1220 explicitly to rival the cathedral in Canterbury, it wasn’t completed until 1472 and is today the second-largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe. Mark was here some 33 years ago and remembered it almost magically, the massive size and beautiful architecture. And after all these years and all the cathedrals that we’ve seen since then it still packs a pretty powerful punch.

Most impressive here are the enormous stained glass windows, some of which date back to the 12th century. The window on the east side of the church – furthest from the entrance – is the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world. Perhaps even more impressive are the 53-foot high windows known as the Five Sisters. Painted in a monochromatic gray, they are simply stunning, unlike anything I’d ever seen.

These windows blew me away

To go along with just wandering around the Minster, we took a “tour” up to the central tower. I call it a “tour” because even though it was advertised as such it was just an opportunity to climb the 275 steps to the top of the tower. Because there’s only one set of stairs and they are quite narrow tickets are sold for a specific time: everyone goes up together and then you come down before the next group starts. The views were nice but for me most fun was listening to the woman in front of me act like she was going to die climbing those 275 steps. It was quite the show.

Otherwise the stop included a bit of wandering around the old town, a nice run and a couple long walks along the River Ouse, some decent food, and even a little shopping. From here we’re off to Edinburgh so we’re leaving England for a couple weeks. I’ve never been to Scotland so this will be a big adventure for me!

Mark enjoying perfect weather and a pre-dinner cocktail in a lovely square. What’s not obvious in this picture is that there is a guy in back of him with a microphone and big speaker singing show tunes very loudly and very badly. Made the whole experience decidedly imperfect.

After touring the Minster and climbing the tower we sat in a little park to read while enjoying this view

The view from the top of the central tower

Flying buttresses seen while climbing to the top

Boats tied up along the River Ouse for miles outside the city

This statue of Queen Elizabeth – head of the Church of England, of course – was added to the front of the Minster in 1977 in honor of 25 years on the throne

Back inside the church

The massive East Window, depicting stories from the Book of Revelations

Enjoying an excellent Perfect Manhattan

After our first lunch Mark went in search of a haircut while I wandered around. And then I stumbled onto said haircut in action!

Lincoln Cathedral dominates this town

I love a great English cathedral town, and we’ll be visiting several of them on this journey. I booked a stop here in Lincoln for two good reasons: 1) it’s reasonably on our trajectory up the East side of England toward Scotland; and 2) the town is dominated by a huge medieval cathedral. So here we landed for a couple nights.

What I didn’t realize when I put Lincoln on our map is that 1) it’s kind of a smallish town; and 2) it’s off the American tourist route.

It turns out there are places Americans go and places they don’t. Our previous stops have all seemed flooded with American tourists. In hotels and restaurants it seems like half the voices you hear have American accents. Not so here in Lincoln. Sitting at breakfast you hear all English accents of one sort or another. One woman here just used the word “bloody” twice in one sentence.

On our first evening, two college age lads were sitting at the table next to us, and they seemed to take some interest in us. Finally, they asked where we were from, admitting that they were just baffled as to where our very exotic sounding accents could be from. We enjoyed quite a bit of conversation. Just as we are Midwesterners who made our way to the big city of New York (which they are fascinated by), they are from the Midlands, contemplating a path to better places.

Turns out they are brothers from the very industrial town of Derby, famed for making cars, including Rolls Royces. Fergus, 26, has managed to move up a bit, landing in Lincoln, where he is doing a PhD in neurosciences. Malachy, 20, is still back in Derby — and dreams of going to New York some day.

Fun dinner conversation with Malachy and Fergus

A view from the lower town toward the upper town and cathedral — before the road gets steeper and steeper

An elegant gateway just before the roads starts to really climb

The actual road name gets right to the point

Tantalizing views of what’s at the top of this monster hill

The features that really stand out in this surprisingly small-feeling town: 1) the 12th century cathedral that just dominates the place, hulking over the town from every angle; 2) the huge 11th century Lincoln Castle, built under orders from William the Conqueror; and 3) the incredibly steep road that gets you from the train station up to the town.

Now we’re set to climb back down that crazy steep road to catch the train to our next stop, which is York. I was in York with my parents 33 years ago and loved it. York, too, has a huge cathedral. But, as Fergus and Malachy insisted, we’re going to really love it because it’s a real town!

Did I mention that the cathedral dominates the town? That would include the view from our room!

An interior shot of Lincoln Cathedral

The cathedral is so huge that the services take place inside this large but comparatively intimate choir area

Inside the roof of the cathedral

Details from the roof

Lincoln Castle from the cathedral roof

One feature of Lincoln Castle is a Victorian era prison. Prisoners had private cells because the jailers believed that they were more likely to reform if they were kept from each other’s wicked influence. They would also bring the prisoners to services in this chapel, with little stalls built so they could see the preacher — but not each other.

The prison had a special exhibit about record album covers. You could sit in various prison cells and look at old album covers while they played the music for you. Very weird.

On a somewhat more sophisticated level, the prison also displayed one of the four existing original copies of Magna Carta from 1215

These people have the right attitude

Glorious views of architecture representing several centuries from lunch at a great tapas place

The dining choices here were limited enough that we went right back to the same tapas place for dinner

It was a good idea to change the name of this club