Italy

It’s hard to believe that August is over, our three months in Eastern Europe have come to an end, and we have at last arrived in Italy, where we expect to spend at least five weeks.

Arriving in Brindisi harbor for our first glance of Italy

Arriving in Brindisi harbor for our first glance of Italy

On one hand we saw so much in those three months in Eastern Europe — from the vast expanses of Siberia to the beautiful pines of the Curonian Spit to the stunning cliffs of Montenegro. And yet it seems like we just scratched the surface of this incredible part of the world we set out to explore. I can’t help but to imagine when we’ll return to see the things we didn’t get to this time — castles in Romania, cafes in Belgrade, and lakes in Macedonia. And we still didn’t get to Moldova, nor do I yet have any sense of what is there.

Quiet streets bursting with personality

Quiet streets bursting with personality

Brindisi, our first stop in Italy, is mostly just a sleepover on our way to Naples. While we expected a gritty port town, we found so much more: streets bursting with whatever magic makes Italian towns so…um…Italian. It’s some combination of marble pavement stones, dull facades, ornate facades, faded grandeur, messy commercial buzz, traffic chaos, ancient monuments, coffee bars, iron railings, strollers, and cats and dogs going about their business.

And food. For dinner we found a perfect little trattoria on a perfect little side street. Four or five outdoor tables. Young people, old people, and some in between. A half carafe of house wine for €2.50. Food unassuming, cheap, and perfect. September is going to be a good month.

Two ancient columns marked the end of the Appian Way, the road from Rome to Brindisi. 1n 1666, the town gave the second column to neighboring Lecce for helping save Brindisi from with the plague.

Two ancient columns marked the end of the Appian Way, the road from Rome to Brindisi. 1n 1666, the town gave the second column to neighboring Lecce for helping save Brindisi from the plague.

It’s probably a little strange for me to write a post about planning, since Mark does most of it, but let me give it a try.

Mark's lunch on a balcony, surrounded by greenery - it was heavenly

Mark’s lunch on a balcony, surrounded by greenery – it was heavenly

My "tuna salad" was perfect

My tuna salad was perfect

So far, we have little to say about Zagreb – we got in late Thursday after the hottest train ride ever and the heat wave was still blasting on Friday. So we did some minimal tourist stuff, had an amazing lunch, and instead of suffering in the blazing sun we dedicated the day to planning out the rest of our European stay. Short story is that we’re going to be on the beach a lot in the coming weeks.

It’s a little surprising how much time we put into planning things – where we’re going next, where we’re staying, how we’re getting there, and then thinking one or two or three stops down the line. (The other surprise is how much time I spend doing laundry in the bathroom, but that’s another story…) In the past, if we were planning two weeks in Italy or something like that, Mark would spend weeks researching, reading reviews, poring over guide books, building test itineraries. Now we’re sort of making it up as we go along, but we still need to put it all together and pay attention to commitments (Albania with Rezart for the last week in August, a five-day bike tour in Puglia in southeastern Italy the first week of October).

So here’s the plan: from Zagreb we’ll go to Split and then Makarska, both on the Dalmatian coast, for three days each.  Then it’s Dubrovnik – a city I’ve dreamt of literally for 40 years – for six days. From there Rezart’s in charge for a week in Albania and maybe a little Montenegro before we take a ferry from Durrës, Albania to Bari, Italy.

We’ve thought from the start of this adventure that we were going to spend September in Italy, but the big decision yesterday was that we were really going to spend September in and around Naples. We’ll hightail it from Bari across Italy direct to Naples for my first return after spending nearly two years there in the mid-1970s and then spend time on each of the three islands in the Bay of Naples – Capri, Ischia, and Procido. Then we’ll head to the Amalfi coast for more beaches, hiking, and eating.

That’s it – that’s what we accomplished yesterday. Deciding to spend four weeks all within shouting distance of Naples. It should be heavenly.

I just stole this picture of Capri from the web ... a sample of things to come

I just stole this picture of Capri from my  Lonely Planet e-book … a sample of things to come