North America

The proud chef (a.k.a. Mark's dad)

The proud chef (a.k.a. Mark’s dad)

Next stop on our quick visit through the States was LaSalle, Michigan, to see Mark’s parents. I won’t say that we intentionally timed the visit to coincide with Michigan’s tomato season, but we’re awfully glad it worked out that way. As we travel around the world we are increasingly convinced that the best tomatoes in the world are from southeastern Michigan. Seriously, we never have truly great tomatoes unless we’re in Michigan.

Oh, and we visited with Mark’s parents, too. There tends to be less time between visits with them than with the rest of our families – they joined us in Guatemala last February, and we’ll spend two weeks in New Zealand with them in November – but time hanging around the house in Michigan is great. Happy hour, where you can count on good quality cocktails at a decent price, is something we look forward to. Given our weird lifestyle, we don’t get a lot of home-cooked meals, so the smoked pork chops, smoked turkey, and steak tartare were a welcome change.

A tiny portion of the tomato harvest at Mark's parents' house

A tiny portion of the tomato harvest at Mark’s parents’ house

Wait – steak tartare? Yup. We go through a bit of withdrawal when we leave France, where one or the other of us has steak tartare most every day. We’d had kibbeh nayyeh (Lebanese raw lamb) for lunch, but that’s just not enough raw meat for one day. So Mark’s dad made it for us on our last night. Wow – every bit as good as anything we’d get in Paris and all washed down with a French rosé we’d managed to bring back from the Loire valley. Seriously good stuff. See?

LaSalle, with its famous steak tartare, is known as the Paris of Michigan. Paris doesn't have those tomatoes, though.

LaSalle, with its famous steak tartare, is known as the Paris of Michigan. Paris doesn’t have those tomatoes, though.

Meanwhile, the saga of my lost luggage on the flight from Paris to Minneapolis continues. They returned the bag while we were up at Lake Vermilion so now the challenge is to get reimbursement for my “necessary expenses” during the six days the bag was flying around North America. Delta has an online form that … how do you describe it? … doesn’t work. You start entering the information and at some random and indeterminate point the form stops capturing the info you enter. It allows you to enter it, and it shows up on the screen but, as I discovered when I was done, most of it isn’t saved when you are ready to submit it.

Smoked turkey dinner one evening with sunflowers from the garden

Smoked turkey dinner one evening with sunflowers from the garden

So I called the Support line and was told by three different people that this was a known problem and I needed to submit multiple forms. OK, I complete one document with the 10 items it seems to accept and start to fill out a second form. This time, though, when I enter my personal information, instead of getting the option to start entering the remaining items I had bought, the form says “Reimbursement claim successfully completed.” As in “Idiot, you’ve already submitted your reimbursement form and we aren’t going to let you submit another!”

So now I have a partial claim filed that they think is my complete file and I’m going to have to go through another round of talking with random people at a call center. All this because they lost my bag on a nonstop flight. Did I mention that I hate Delta?

As I said, the stop in Michigan was brief. We did a day of errands in Ann Arbor, including a brief tour of Mark’s old college stomping grounds, getting ready to head off to the remote South Pacific. First, though, it’s off to San Francisco and Hawai’i.

On our way back from errands in Ann Arbor we stopped at the cemetery where Mark's paternal ancestors are buried. This is the tomb of his great-grandparents. Cornelius, you will see, was born on our country's 60th birthday. Not bad when you consider we just celebrated the 240th!

On our way back from errands in Ann Arbor we stopped at the cemetery where Mark’s paternal ancestors are buried. This is the tomb of his great-grandparents. Cornelius, you will see, was born on our country’s 60th birthday. Not bad when you consider we just celebrated the 240th!

And one more shot of those tomatoes being put to good use

And one more shot of those tomatoes being put to good use

My 80-year-old mom with her children, children-in-laws, grandkids, and great-grandkids (minus the 13-person Alaska contingent)

My 80-year-old mom with her children, children-in-laws, grandkids, and great-grandkids (minus the 13-person Alaska contingent)

Back in 2001 my parents celebrated their 50th anniversary and, after a big party to celebrate, the family – parents, siblings, spouses and partners, grandkids – went to an island in Lake Superior for a week-long reunion. Given that the family at the time was spread from the Boston through the Midwest, out to California and up to Alaska, the opportunity to reconnect was delightful. Five years later we returned and then in 2011 we went to a lodge on Lake Vermilion, a huge lake in Northern Minnesota, instead. Now 2016 was time for our fourth reunion.

The family has changed a lot, of course. Three new grandkids. Eleven new great-grandchildren. A couple in-laws left the scene. Sadly, my Dad died just a couple months ago, and we missed him a lot this week. My mom is on the long slide of Alzheimer’s, which makes the time we get with her now that much more precious. And for this reunion the Alaska side of the family – my brother and his wife, along with his son, daughter-in-law, and their nine (!) children – couldn’t make it down.

Our sliver of Lake Vermilion

Our sliver of Lake Vermilion

Still, there was a lot to celebrate. It’s easy for me to imagine that as I grow older and more geographically distant from my siblings I would grow, well, more distant. It’s not happening, perhaps in measurable chance because of these reunions. In fact, it’s just the opposite; I enjoy them – enjoy, respect, and appreciate them – more than ever these days. Particularly when we’re all spread so far away there is just no substitute for a long week, lazy, relaxed. No agenda, just hanging out cooking, eating, cleaning. Drinking. The funny story there is that although we range from mid-forties to early sixties, we still have to hide our drinking from my mother. (Alcohol doesn’t mix well with her Alzheimer’s so we keep it away from her.)

Time with our several nieces and nephews is lots of fun, too. Jackson was an infant when we first did this in 2001; now he’s got his driver’s license learners permit. Kevin was a young teenager back then and now he’s in a PhD program. Little Dexter wasn’t a gleam in anyone’s eye in 2001 and now he’s a cancer survivor. No one had blue hair then but Mat does now.

My nephew Jacob in the middle, with my brother's grandsons Mat & Dex, spent a lot of time fishing. Not catching a lot, but definitely fishing a lot.

My nephew Jacob in the middle, with my brother’s grandsons Mat & Dex, spent a lot of time fishing. Not catching a lot, but definitely fishing a lot.

What’s it like for a week in the great Northland? Loons calling across the lake at night. Several bald eagles flying overhead, sometimes close enough that you could hear their wings in the wind. A mild case of northern lights one night. The most luminous rainbow any of us have ever seen. Ever. My brother Vic and brother-in-law Lonnie did most of the cooking, ensuring that we would eat really, really well. Fabulous northern Minnesota weather through most of the week.

There were lots of things to do in the water, including kayaking

There were lots of things to do in the water, including kayaking

This once-every-five-year reunion was the proximate cause of our return to the States, but with my mother’s health declining we may have to push the next one up a few years. I will consider myself a lucky man if the next one is as good and comforting as this one was.

From here we’re making a couple more brief stops – Michigan and San Francisco on the mainland, then Hawai’i – before landing in the South Pacific in a couple weeks. So far I’m really enjoying the visit home, but already we’re getting itchy to start exploring new parts of the world.

If you're wondering where it is, that's Lake Vermilion, closer to the Canadian border than to Duluth. The star on the western end is where we stayed, just a tiny sliver of the huge lake.

If you’re wondering where it is, that’s Lake Vermilion, closer to the Canadian border than to Duluth. The star on the western end is where we stayed, just a tiny sliver of the huge lake.

Everyone wanted to be seen in Mark's Korean reading glasses including here my sister-in-law Anita and sister Rebecca

Everyone wanted to be seen in Mark’s Korean reading glasses including here my sister-in-law Anita and sister Rebecca

Mom and five of her six kids, ranging in age from mid-40s to mid-60s

Mom and five of her six kids, ranging in age from mid-40s to mid-60s

Dex is almost always smiling. After what he went through the last two years - brutal cancer treatments - it makes a lot of sense.

Dex is almost always smiling. After what he went through the last two years – brutal cancer treatments – it makes a lot of sense.

And his big brother Mat, showing him how real men fish

And his big brother Mat, showing him how real men fish

Mom with some of her grandchildren and great-grandchildren

Mom with some of her grandchildren and great-grandchildren

Mark & I got to pose with her, too

Mark & I got to pose with her, too

A storm went through on our first full day up at the lake and left in its wake the most amazing rainbow(s) any of us have ever seen

A storm went through on our first full day up at the lake and left in its wake the most amazing rainbow(s) any of us have ever seen

Evenings can be colorful in the Great Northland

Evenings can be colorful in the Great Northland

One last view of our beach and some of the toys for jumping and sliding

One last view of our beach and some of the toys for jumping and sliding

The highlight of our stay was dinner with Amy & Deb, two of my best friends from college, along with their spouses. There's a great story about the three of us. One night in 1981 or so I had dinner with Deb and came out to her, told her I was gay. A few weeks later I learned - she couldn't share it with me at the time - that Amy had come out to her that very same day over lunch. And here we are 35 years later and still great friends.

The highlight of our stay was dinner with Amy & Deb, two of my best friends from college, along with their spouses. There’s a great story about the three of us. One night in 1981 or so I had dinner with Deb and came out to her, told her I was gay. A few weeks later I learned – she couldn’t share it with me at the time – that Amy had come out to her that very same day over lunch. And here we are 35 years later and still great friends.

Three days in Minneapolis – where I lived for 10 years in the 1970s and 1980s – was supposed to be mostly about visiting old friends and wandering around my old haunts. There was a bit of that, but mostly it was about trying to find my luggage.

Sigh. Just three months after Air France lost my luggage flying from Buenos Aires to Paris, Delta lost my luggage flying from Paris to Minneapolis. And as this was a direct flight, no connections to complicate things, it made no sense that my luggage didn’t make it to Minneapolis with me. But what a comedy of errors it turned out to me.

Hubert Humphrey was my hero as a kid, and the guy who inspired me to work for the public good. This statue was put up in front of City Hall - where I used to work and where he served as mayor in the 1940s - some years after I left the city.

Hubert Humphrey was my hero as a kid, and the guy who inspired me to work for the public good. This statue was put up in front of City Hall – where I used to work and where he served as mayor in the 1940s – some years after I left the city.

The first challenge was filing the report. We were staying at the W Hotel right downtown, but the woman filling out the form needed the address and couldn’t find the hotel in the list she was looking at. After a few minutes I asked if I could see the list … and it only went up to the S’s. Maybe that’s why you couldn’t find the W Hotel. So she got another binder and found the hotel.

I fully expected the luggage to be delivered that night and the next morning the online tracking system indicated it had been delivered right after midnight. So I went to the lobby, but there was no bag. The guy at the desk said he’d been on duty since 11:00 PM and he insisted that no one had delivered anything. I called Delta and they said yes, it had been delivered at 8 Marquette Ave. Except the hotel was at 821 Marquette Ave. The woman who didn’t know that W comes after S also couldn’t get the address right.

So then hours and multiple calls trying to get someone at Delta to find my bag, wherever they’d delivered it, and bring it to our hotel. Not having much luck. Eventually the hotel reported that the delivery company had showed up asking to pick up a bag for a Mr. St. George. Didn’t exactly increase my confidence level.

Finally the next night, our last night in Minneapolis, they delivered my bag. Or at least they delivered a bag. Someone at the airport had hand written my name and file number on a tag, but it wasn’t my bag; the computer generated baggage tag attached when the guy had checked in indicated it belonged to a Mohammed somebody-or-other. Definitely not feeling confident.

So we left Minneapolis without my bag, stopping at a mall to buy enough clothes to get me through a week with my family on a lake way, way up north. Instead of all the fun I’d been expecting in my old home town I ended up spending hours on the phone and shopping for essentials. To finish the story, much to my surprise they delivered my bag a few days later up at the lodge on Lake Vermilion. At one point I checked online and they said my bag was on a flight from Portland to Seattle – really? – but then it flew to Minneapolis, on to Hibbing, and someone drove it to our lodge.

That was the memorable story of Minneapolis. We’ll see how much Delta will reimburse me for the stuff I needed to buy to get through the six days without any luggage, along with a not unreasonable expectation that I would not get the bag while we were up north.

The city keeps changing for the better. This is the new Vikings stadium on the edge of downtown (like really new; the Vikings had their first workout while we were there) and we thought it was gorgeous, a really beautiful piece of architecture. Who'd have ever expected a football stadium to be so cool?

The city keeps changing for the better. This is the new Vikings stadium on the edge of downtown (like really new; the Vikings had their first workout while we were there) and we thought it was gorgeous, a really beautiful piece of architecture. Who’d have ever expected a football stadium to be so cool?

Meanwhile, we had a great time on our first stop in the U.S. It’s a little weird being back here. They serve big glasses of cold water in restaurants. For free! You have to think of the ground floor as the first floor, when in much of the world the first floor is the floor above the ground floor. You can take a shower in the hotel expecting that water won’t leak everywhere. You can order cocktails and they’re big, good, and quick. (One of the things that always surprises me when we order drinks outside the U.S. is how crazy long it takes them to make them.) You look at a menu and, when you try to calculate an exchange rate, you realize you don’t have to. When Mark & I are done eating, the wait staff often asks if we want separate checks. Never happens outside the country. And then there’s the CVS, a store for all your essentials that just doesn’t exist in other countries.

The view from our bathroom. Our hotel was in the old Foshay Tower, an art deco building that was the tallest in Minneapolis from 1929 until 1972.

The view from our bathroom. Our hotel was in the old Foshay Tower, an art deco building that was the tallest in Minneapolis from 1929 until 1972.

One great story. We rented a car for our time in Minnesota, since from here we’re driving north for a week. We parked in a garage directly across from the hotel, where a sign indicated it was $23 for 24 hours. We left it there for just under 48 hours when we needed it and the bill at a kiosk outside the garage was for $67. How could that be? We expected to pay $46, but where did the other $21 come from? There was a phone there in case of problems, and the woman on duty explained that we’d been there for parts of three days, so they charged us for three days, not two. We argued, but she was adamant: it was a $67 charge.

We were beside ourselves with frustration, when I noticed in small print on the kiosk that the charge for a lost card was $23, the full one-day charge. So we pushed the button saying we’d lost our card and got charged $23, instead of the $46 we were willing and prepared to pay. I believe in paying what I owe, but if they’re going to try to screw with us by charging us extra I didn’t really feel too guilty about getting a free day of parking. In fact, I feel pretty good about it!

So that was Minneapolis. We had a great time with old friends: lunch with an old college roommate, dinner with a favorite VAN staff person who now works remotely from Minneapolis, dinner with some of my best friends from college, breakfast with old friends from Minneapolis campaigns. Then it was off to the Great Northland, in case you thought Minneapolis wasn’t far enough north.

A huge change from when I lived here is that a whole neighborhood with tens of thousands of people has sprung up downtown, many living in old warehouses like this along the Mississippi River. It's made the city so much more interesting than it used to be.

A huge change from when I lived here is that a whole neighborhood with tens of thousands of people has spring up downtown, many living in old warehouses like this along the Mississippi River. It’s made the city so much more interesting than it used to be.