North America

The mess that is Cancun

The mess that is Cancun

Welcome to Mexico! Not.

After six weeks in the United States we hit the international road again, sort of. We caught a flight to Cancun so that we can spend a few weeks getting to know the Yucatan peninsula better. We actually stayed in Cancun for a couple days in order to get some errands done.

There are a few great things about Yucatan that compel us to spend some time traveling through the peninsula. The beaches along the so-called “Maya Riviera,” south of Cancun, are truly some of the best we’ve ever seen — bright turquoise, sandy, and warm. We love the Yucatecan cuisine, with its heavy Maya influence. And we love visiting the kinds of lively Mexican towns, plentiful in Yucatan, that revolve around bustling central plazas.

But we had to make a stop in Cancun to get a few things done. So we of course made the best of a place we find largely dreadful. The beaches here can be stunning, but that’s just not enough to make up for the downside — throngs of partying American tourists, strip malls full of yucky chain restaurants, obnoxious touts everywhere, and a gritty town center that sorely lacks Mexican charm.

We did partly tackle fear number one about travel in Mexico: how on earth to avoid bad carbohydrates. We absolutely love Mexican food in general, but it’s hard to dine here without being assaulted by very tempting stuff that we work hard to avoid. There are tortillas everywhere in many forms. There is corn in everything. There are always mounds of beans and rice next to everything. And everyone else seems to be enjoying great big sugary margaritas.

So we do have to employ a little more resistance than usual to keep up the dietary habits that keep us in decent form. But that leaves a lot to love and enjoy. We tend to scoop all the incredible salsas onto our delicious grilled meats instead of those crunchy chips. We’ve had lots of great fish, either cooked in great salsa or ceviche-style with bright fresh lime juice and chiles. I think we can survive here after all, eating well without packing on too many pounds.

After getting our errands done here, we caught a bus for the inland town of Valladolid — a two-hour bus ride and a million miles away from the American tourist mess that is Cancun. From there our visit to Mexico began in earnest.

We managed to sift through the tourist traps to find some great, healthy Mexican food, such as grilled salmon with crazy delicious sauted vegetables

We managed to sift through the tourist traps to find some great, healthy Mexican food, such as grilled salmon with crazy delicious sauted vegetables

After getting badly lost in dusty downtown Cancun we finally found Casa de Chef Cristian Morales, a genuine oasis of great food, fantastic design, and wonderful service

After getting badly lost in dusty downtown Cancun we finally found Casa de Chef Cristian Morales, a genuine oasis of great food, fantastic design, and wonderful service

A view of the HOLLYWOOD sign from the back of the Batcave. Yes, the Batcave from the old Batman series.

A view of the HOLLYWOOD sign from the back of the Batcave. Yes, the Batcave from the old Batman series.

Shortly before leaving the U.S. in May 2013 we stopped in Los Angeles for a couple days to see friends. Our overwhelming sense then – our first visit to LA together – was that it was a city that made our friends happy. Even friends who were not known for being bright, smiling, happy people. In LA, though, they were remarkably happy. So, after our week-plus in Utah & Las Vegas, we stopped again in LA for a few days.

Blue skies and palm trees - that's Los Angeles

Blue skies and palm trees – that’s Los Angeles

The good news is, our friends are still happy. Something about the weather and the people and the pace of life just agrees with them. I have to say, though, I’m not sure I get it entirely. The big drawback for us was the need for cars. While there has been some improvement in public transportation, overwhelmingly to get anywhere you need a car. And that suggests all the traffic woes you can imagine.

That’s just not typical of most great cities. Obviously our old home in Boston had pretty good public transportation, and we got by our last five years without a car. You can get by just fine in New York, Paris, London, Hong Kong and lots of other cities we’ve been in without a car, certainly as a tourist. Not so in LA, though; it’s just not realistic to spend time there without spending much of it sitting in traffic.

Mummy of Herakleides

Mummy of Herakleides

So there you are. Great friends who love the city, but maybe I’m just not a West Coast kind of guy. I should add that the weather didn’t help matters either. It’s supposed to be pretty much always beautiful in LA, but there was quite the little heat wave while we were there, with temperatures hitting 100 degrees or close to it mid-day. Oh yeah, and a drought. I mean, who could have predicted that when you build a major metropolitan area in a desert region?

OK, enough complaining about LA. Our big cultural excursion was a tour of the Getty Villa, a museum dedicated to the arts of ancient Greece and Rome. Our favorite part was the Mummy of Herakleides, a 1900-year-old mummy that “combines the millennia-old Egyptian tradition of mummification of the dead with the Roman tradition of individualized portraiture.” And later I learned that one of the museum’s most prominent pieces, The Victorious Youth dating from about 200 BC, is part of a serious controversy with the Italian government. They have indicted the Getty’s former curator for trafficking in stolen antiquities and Greek authorities are investigating her; she claims she’s being hung out to dry for doing things everyone on the Board knew of and condoned. Sounds like fun!

A close up of the mummy's painted face. We thought this was really cool.

A close up of the mummy’s painted face. We thought this was really cool.

We had a great time visiting with friends, and we have the pictures to prove it. I hiked up the hill behind the big HOLLYWOOD sign and even went through the Batcave, the very cave that Batman drove the Batmobile in that classic 1960s sitcom, right there in Griffith Park by the start of the hike to the sign. I might not love cars, but I made an exception to pay my respects to the Batmobile! Oh, and we drove past Cher’s house. That’s right – a Roman-Egyptian mummy, the Batcave, Cher, and great friends all in one weekend. Who says LA ain’t grand?!?

First up on our visit with friends was dinner with Jarrett Barrios, former MA politician now the head of the LA area Red Cross

First up on our visit with friends was dinner with Jarrett Barrios, former MA politician now the head of the LA area Red Cross

Next up was afternoon tea with Judith, a great friend from her DC days. Now she's moved to LA, lost a bunch of weight, and can't understand why East Coast people work so hard.

Next up was afternoon tea with Judith, a great friend from her DC days. Now she’s moved to LA, lost a bunch of weight, and can’t understand why East Coast people work so hard.

That night was dinner with Paul & Keith, former Kennedy School classmates, along with Paul's wife Susie

That night was dinner with Paul & Keith, former Kennedy School classmates, along with Paul’s wife Susie

Touring the Getty Villa with Keith & Nick

Touring the Getty Villa with Keith & Nick

LA from behind the Hollywood sign. In real life that haze hanging over the city was an ugly brown, a sure sign that people there should drive less!

LA from behind the Hollywood sign. In real life that haze hanging over the city was an ugly brown, a sure sign that people there should drive less!

And in all it's glory, here's the Batcave, where scenes from the old series were shot. If you look for it on YouTube you can find a scene or two of the Batmobile screaming in or out of the cave - this cave, I should say.

And in all it’s glory, here’s the Batcave, where scenes from the old series were shot. If you look for it on YouTube you can find a scene or two of the Batmobile screaming in or out of the cave – this cave, I should say.

Incredible hiking through Arches National Park

Incredible hiking through Arches National Park

Some moody weather moved in and out of Arches, heightening the drama

Some moody weather moved in and out of Arches, heightening the drama

Our journey across southern Utah has now taken us to all five of the state’s spectacular national parks. After Zion and Bryce Canyon we made an overnight stop at Capitol Reef National Park, then settled into Moab for a few days to visit the Canyonlands and Arches parks.

My mom and dad truly love these parks, and it’s been fun to spend time with them and share their enthusiasm. The natural beauty here is incredible, and each of the five parks has quite a distinct personality.

You can't help but be amazed by Balanced Rock in Arches National Park

You can’t help but be amazed by Balanced Rock in Arches National Park

Jim and I have done some incredible hikes through these parks, concluding our visit yesterday with the toughest one of the week. We completed a 7.2 mile loop through Arches National Park, including a segment defined as a “primitive trail,” marked by signs warnings of “difficult hiking.”

Here in the litigious United States, signs like that don’t scare us too much. But we soon found ourselves in some surprisingly precarious positions. At one point we had to slide across a crazy narrow, slippery ledge with nothing to hold onto, virtually no place to put your feet, etc. For several minutes on that ledge I found myself fairly terrified to continue ahead and equally afraid to go back. I eventually gritted my teeth and got through it, but I do feel like I was one little slip away from a deathly plunge into a rocky canyon. I guess adventure can still be found, even here in lawyerly America.

While Utah is incredibly beautiful, it’s mostly not a place for epicurean pleasures. Food has largely been mediocre, and obnoxious Mormon-insired liquor regulations make it hard to get a decent cocktail. But Moab has proved to be a little oasis with a plethora of cute shops, adventure outfits, and a couple pretty decent restaurants. And to our great surprise, the town is livened up this week by colorful rainbow flags and banners proclaiming “Moab Gay Adventure Week.” Who knew?

Jim poses before one of the many arches that gives this place its name

Jim poses before one of the many arches that gives this place its name

Canyonlands National Park let us look down into vast, deep canyons

Canyonlands National Park let us look down into vast, deep canyons

We hiked through a deep canyon in Capitol Reef National Park, where the deep red stone popped beautifully against the bright blue skies.

We hiked through a deep canyon in Capitol Reef National Park, where the deep red stone popped beautifully against the bright blue skies.

As we climbed a ridge between Capitol Reef and the more eastern parks, we were stunned by the gorgeous aspen trees in bright fall colors

As we climbed a ridge between Capitol Reef and the more eastern parks, we were stunned by the gorgeous aspen trees in bright fall colors

Jim navigates yet another stunning path through Arches National Park

Jim navigates yet another stunning path through Arches National Park

That's me in Arches

That’s me in Arches

My mom and dad take a tour around Balanced Rock

My mom and dad take a tour around Balanced Rock

Toward the end of our most harrowing hike we were faced with the minor fjording challenge

Toward the end of our most harrowing hike we were faced with the minor fjording challenge