Stunning Lake Bled and Bled Island

Minnesotan that he is, Jim spent a lot more time swimming in Lake Bled than I did, but here’s proof I made it in too

If you google Slovenia, the first image that pops up is of postcard-perfect Bled. It’s a lovely vacation town that sits on a stunning lake with that oh-so-pretty island with a church in the middle. Though it’s just barely an hour from Ljubljana, we picked up a car and drove here to facilitate the next parts of our journey.

When I was backpacking in Europe in college, my parents and two siblings came over and met up with me for a day in Florence. Before that they had courageously wandered into Yugoslavia to a place called Bled. Yugoslavia sure sounded exotic at that time. And this obscure town of Bled sounded surprisingly nice. It took me another 38 years to get here myself.

Despite having seen all those postcard images of Lake Bled, we were still blown away by the beauty of this place. You can walk around the lake in about an hour, and it’s gorgeous from every angle. The color of the water is stunning. A castle rises over one side of the lake. Pretty chalets are sprinkled all around. It’s all ringed by the craggy peaks of the Julian Alps. And that island church is so perfect.

Bled Castle watches over the lake

Happy people in a beautiful place

Architecture and window boxes remind us of romantic towns in Germany and France

You can’t take too many pictures of this stunning lake. Especially if there is a swan!

Hiking out of town toward the Vintgar Gorge

Just outside town I ran into my first cat of the whole trip. He came running toward me, and when he got close he sort of jumped to get his head closer to my hand for faster petting.

Though we came to Europe to escape the heat and humidity of July in New York, it’s actually been unseasonably hot in much of Europe. In fact, it’s been hotter in Slovenia this week than in New York. Cool blue Lake Bled has been a nice antidote to that.

For another escape from the heat, we hiked about an hour out of town to the Vintgar Gorge. There it takes about an hour to traverse the gorge on a series of boardwalks and footbridges. The air is cool and refreshing, and the river winds and crashes below you. Now we know where the word ‘gorgeous’ comes from. We were again stunned by the beauty of the place. And here we were afraid we were too jaded to be impressed any more!

The gorge was truly gorgeous

Here we are at the gorge — happy, cool, and impressed

More gorgeous gorge

The hike back to Bled took us through a very attractive forest

On one of my walks around the lake I wondered how different it looked when my parents were here in the Yugoslavia of 1984. Was it as beautiful then? Were there as many tourists? Were the pathways as attractive and well maintained? Did my parents walk all the way around the lake? Then I did some math and realized that when they were here they were 11 years younger than I am right now. And 20 years younger than Jim. Now that’s weird.

Jim was pretty excited by the local sausages

A pretty little group of water lilies on the lake

Jim looks pretty happy with the dinner menu

Much of life in Ljubljana takes place along the lively, lovely river Ljubljanica. At center here is the city’s famed “triple bridge,” designed by the ubiquitous architect Jože Plečnik.

It’s been a long time since we’ve really “travelled,” and we’re pretty excited to be back at it again. Since COVID came along we’ve been on a few trips, but this is the first time we’ve set out on a real adventure since we completed the big one 3-1/2 years ago.

We love New York, but we love it less in July and August when oppressive heat and humidity set in. So this year we decided to take eight weeks off for some of the old travel adventure. We began our trip here in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. We’ll spend the eight weeks in Slovenia, Croatia, Norway, Sweden, plus one little corner of Italy.

Lunch at one of the endless heavenly restaurants that line the river

Why Slovenia? It’s a lovely little country on the edge of the Alps that we’ve just never managed to get to before. It takes a bit of effort to get here. Now that I’ve finally made it, this leaves Belarus as the only one of the 44 countries in Europe I’ve not been to. Jim will be able to make the same claim after we get to Norway in a month.

We’ve looked forward to this trip with some lingering concerns. Will we like this kind of travel as much as we used to? Or will it feel like a chore? Are we jaded after our big adventure a few years ago? Are we now just checking boxes, trying to squeeze in places we didn’t get to before?

Our concerns were quickly abated by Ljubljana’s oversized charms. For a little known capital, it’s got a really nice vibe. A compact historic core is packed with classic architecture, lovely cobbled streets, and buzzing nightlife. The river Ljubljanica is lined with lively cafes and restaurants. And there is an impressive foodie scene.

We had surprisingly great food at every meal in this town. But our last dinner was the best. We went to a place called Çompa. It was a bit removed from the pretty streets that line the river. It was in a grittier part of town, the place looked comparatively downscale, and it was packed with locals. Çompa is renowned for its meats — including beef, pork, and horse. We had some of all three, and we were blown away by how delicious everything was. Pics below.

For a starter at Çompa we had cubes of raw beef with bright, beautifully flavored sauces

Then we followed up with some pork and some horse filet. Here Jim eagerly scoops up some horse. I always think horse is going to be tough and nasty, but we could not believe how delicious this was

We spent a wonderful evening with Zoran and Daniça

One of the highlights of our visit was an evening with two fascinating locals — Zoran and Daniça Kus — who were introduced to us by our friend Kiša back in New York. Zoran recently retired from a long career working with the Slovenian government and international organizations as an expert on environment and climate change. Daniça is a photographer who travels the world to capture great architecture. She is currently commissioned to document the work of Jože Plečnik, the Slovenian architect who rebuilt Ljubljana in the early to mid-20th century, and whose fingerprints are on everything in this town.

This has been a lovely start to our summer mini-adventure. Now we head toward the Julian Alps in Northwestern Slovenia.

Jim followed the river to the outer edges of town one afternoon

Some paddle boarders glide under the triple bridge

Grand bronze doors to the Cathedral of St. Nicholas evoke the beauty of Florence. In this case though they’re quite modern, added in 1996 to mark the Pope’s visit. That’s him at the top.

The exterior of the early 18th century baroque Cathedral of St. Nicholas couldn’t be more boring, but the interior has all the glitz you would expect in a European cathedral

A meat and cheese board, some olives, a glass of rosé, and an outdoor table right by the river. Can it get any better?

Tivoli Park is an enormous green space in Ljubljana with untold numbers of walking trails, grassy picnic areas, shaded walks. Jim loved finding little reading nooks here.

An early morning walk along the Ljubljanica river

Sts. Cyril & Methodius Church, just outside Tivoli Park, is a classic Orthodox church

Jim enjoyed a couple hours at the National Gallery and was particularly taken by this early 16th Century Christ

Speaking of the National Gallery, this mid-18th century Slovenian is pretty happy with his pretzel!

We always love a good market

OK, this was strange. Prešeren Square right next to the river is like a million other beautiful old European squares except for one thing: It has its own weather. See that sign, warning you about rain and suggesting an umbrella? A perfectly warm, sunny day and there’s this little circle of sprinkles. It took us a few seconds to find that little sprayer you see in the upper left corner of the picture, with just the most gentle little drizzle on the circle. Just when you think you’ve seen everything!

Our niece Molly is staying with us for much of the summer, doing an internship in Brooklyn. Here she is with Mark ready for Opera Night.

We got back to New York at the end of May to spend a month in the city and quickly jumped into whirlwind of concerts, shows, operas, and parties. The lineup included Broadway, the Metropolitan Opera, local concert venues, and two big parties in our loft. Warning: lots of pictures here!

First up was Melissa Etheridge, a lesbian rocker especially big in the ’90s. We’d seen her once before and loved her power and connection to the audience. The show was at City Winery, a pretty modest venue with maybe 200 people where you could have dinner and drinks with the show. Mark in particular was blown away, just kept talking about how much he loved the concert.

Melissa Etheridge performing

We last saw Melissa maybe 10 years ago and to be honest she aged during those years. Thank God we didn’t!

Just three days later we saw a Neil Diamond “tribute band” – a bunch of musicians covering maybe 15 of his songs. Part of the fun for us was that the show was at Joe’s Pub, part of the Public Theater that is right next to our building. No easier commute in the world! The show wasn’t exactly what I was expecting; no one was trying to look or sound like Neil Diamond. They were just performing his songs. And just like at City Winery you could enjoy dinner and drinks during the show. Very civilized.

One of maybe a dozen performers doing Neil Diamond

The various performers were a mixed bag, some pretty good, some not so great. This kid though hit it out of the park. He did one Neil Diamond song that I’ve never been that fond of but he turned it into an absolute show stopper.

And then the very next night was a Slavic music concert right in our own home. Mark’s piano teacher Gena Raps has been a professional musician since she graduated from Juilliard … a while ago. On top of that she’s the queen bee of a coterie of classical musicians who still love to perform. A group of them had performed a concert of Slavic chamber music in a small venue while we were in France, and Gena suggested they repeat the concert in our apartment. They had friends (like us) who hadn’t been able to see the first concert because of scheduling conflicts and on top of that they wouldn’t have to charge admission. It was a beautiful and amazing evening.

Carol Wincenc is an old friend of Gena’s and widely considered one of the top flutists in the world. Here she is performing with Gena on the piano and one of her students. When I learned the student was still in high school I was seriously impressed.

Van is another of Gena’s old friends. She was the lead cellist with the New York Philharmonic for years and tells fun stories of parties at Leonard Bernstein’s.

A couple days after that it was off to Broadway to see MJ The Musical, a show about Michael Jackson. This was definitely more in the category of guilty pleasure than high art. Basically a lot of dancing and fun music with a story that was … a bit of a mess. Totally fun but not the sort of thing you absolutely have to see.

Michael Jackson (not the real one – he’s dead) in yellow taking bows. The dancing was really the highlight.

Next up was the Metropolitan Opera. Our Canadian friends from Boston Marc & David were in town and Marc in particular really wanted to see Akhenaten, a Phillip Glass opera about the Egyptian pharaoh who tried to reorient ancient Egypt from polytheism to monotheism. Today arguably his family is better know – one of his wives was Nefertiti while his son was Tutankhamun, known more familiarly as King Tut. At any rate, the opera was unlike anything I’ve ever seen before. The music was hauntingly minimalistic, the staging included a lot of juggling and some unexpected nudity (at the Metropolitan Opera!), and the entire experience was surreal. The lead, Akhenaten, was a countertenor, the highest male voice and similar in range to a mezzo-soprano. They used to get that range by castrating young male sopranos – it was a thing; they were called castrati – but that’s not considered kosher anymore. I couldn’t believe he could sing in that falsetto with so much power, since one of the defining characteristics of opera is that the performers are never amplified. We loved it and Mark’s piano teacher – who has strong opinions on these things – loved it, but that was not a universal opinion. Definitely unusual.

The cast of Akhenaten taking bows, including the conductor in black

There was still more. The next week it was back to Broadway to see the revival of Music Man, starring Hugh Jackman and Sutton Foster. Again a lot of fun but Sutton Foster in particular seemed miscast as a singer. We saw it with our friends Michael and Megan, both professional musicians who confirmed that she just wasn’t up to it. Fun though.

Trouble in River City – Hugh Jackman and Sutton Foster take their bows after finishing another show of Music Man

And finally, one last blow out before we left New York for an eight-week European vacation: A return to Opera Night at 62 Cooper Square. We did this once, last year, and were eager to try it again. Basically we work with the afore-mentioned Michael and Megan who have a “stable” of opera singers that they bring together to perform. We invite friends, hire caterers, and have a fabulous party. And they didn’t disappoint. Maybe 10 singers doing various arias from famous and sometimes less well-known operas. Lots of time for mingling and socializing. It’s exhausting to host but also amazing, both to enjoy the music and the creative combination of new and old friends that show up. It’s not the sort of thing I want to do too regularly but once or twice a year it’s pretty special.

Two of our favorite performers at Opera Night

And finally, after all that, we’re done with summer in New York. Now we’re off for eight weeks in Europe: four in Slovenia and Croatia, then four in Norway and Sweden. But there are a lot more pictures from New York so here they are.

The month was entirely about music. Here we are after dinner celebrating Ajay’s birthday with Nina & Noah, his sister and brother-in-law, and friends Stuart and Hiro.

Ajay was a classmate in graduate school and we’ve been close ever since

Mark and Molly just outside our building

One of the highlights of the month was an overnight trip to visit our friends Adam and Steve at their lakeside home in the northern reaches of Westchester County. Yup, turns out God actually did create Adam and Steve.

There is a great bike path up the west side of Manhattan along the Hudson River. The park runs all the way from the southern tip to the very northern end of the island. So here I am as far north on the island as you can go. Sadly it’s really the only nice ride you can do, but it is pretty nice.

One of my favorite spots in Manhattan. Lots of those old piers that made New York wealthy from trade and shipping and all that have been converted into parks, including this perfect little spot for reading and lazing away a beautiful morning.

Here I am with Van & Alina at our Slavic music concert

Mark with our art consultant Lowell, his wife Courtney, and daughter Boe, also at the Slavic concert

One of the great pleasures of going to the opera is that you can reserve a table at a restaurant right in the opera house. You have dinner before the opera and then at intermission your dessert and wine or champagne is waiting for you. This is seriously civilized.

Mark with Judy and Gena at the Metropolitan Opera

Ours was the final performance of the season of Akhenaten and at the end Philip Glass himself came out. It was a pretty special moment.

Michael can’t put on Opera Night without including a swan…

Both my trainer and Mark’s came to Opera Night. Here I am with Gio. You can tell which one is the trainer.

Opera night performers

Our fabulous friend Dakota

Opera night

The opera performers

Our month of music included dinner with Gena at Peter & Thea’s Upper West Side apartment. Thea is a composer, a native Scot who has been knighted by the queen. Seriously. Peter was the founder and for some 30 years the music director of the Virginia Opera Company.

Me and Molly at Lafayette, our favorite French bakery and café<

One day while I was off at the gym, our friend Seth dropped by with Betsy. Paul on the left there was staying with us for a few days. They were all classmates of ours in graduate school so they had a little, mini-reunion for a bit! Oh, and since Seth was the one who first suggested we get a piano, he’s directly responsible for all the fabulous concerts we host.

As we were going to the opera to see Akhenaten, we ended up with this eerie vision of Mark’s shadow on some woman’s coat

Was I talking about music in New York? Just an ordinary street scene in Greenwich Village.