Almagro was a short stop some 95 miles south of Toledo. There was no real reason to go there; it’s the home of the oldest theater in Spain and the conquistador Deigo de Almagro, credited as the European discoverer of Chile, hailed from here but neither of those are really that interesting. In truth we came here for two days just to get off the tourist trail and see a little of rural and small-town La Mancha.
At that we succeeded. Almagro has a beautiful old town square surrounded by fun tapas bars and a feel that reminded us of being in Mexico. It’s right on the Don Quixote Route, a well-marked trail that allegedly follows his path pretty closely and made for fun morning runs and afternoon walks. One tapas bar in particular, “El Gordo” or The Fat Guy’s, was great; we ate one lunch and two dinners there, sampling nearly everything available and loving them all. And, if you really worked at it, you could get the bill for food and wine up to maybe $25.Very low key, just a chance to chill out a bit before heading to the big three cities south of here, Córdoba, Seville, and Granada.