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Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

We decided to spend almost a week in Bordeaux, and so far the place is living up to my high expectations. Bordeaux combines so much of what we love about European cities — monumental architecture, great city planning, and lots of urban energy.

Horsing around

Horsing around

The city wraps around a smooth curve of the Garonne river and it is really loaded up with 19th century neo-classical architecture. Huge swaths of the city center have been pedestrianized, and the urban core has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The streets are teeming with public art, street performances, and people enjoying it all.

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

Yesterday we took a train to the seaside town of Arcachon, where we rented bikes and rode out to a sand dune called the Dune de Pilat. Even knowing that this was the largest sand dune in Europe, I wasn’t really expecting all that much. I mean, what’s the big deal about a hill of sand between the beach and the shore? You see that in lots of beach areas.

But once we get there it was pretty incredible — a truly massive pile of sand with a life of its own. It apparently moves several meters a year, slowly swallowing up the forest inland. It’s already taken out some roads and buildings as well, including a hotel. After an arduous climb to the top we were rewarded with incredible views — and our first glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean since we left Boston!

Lots of cool public art

Lots of cool public art

Today we are embarking on another day trip out of town to encounter some of what Bordeaux is really known for — wine. I’m intrigued whether an all-day visit to wine country here will enhance my relationship to Bordeaux wines, which I have never really understood. This region produces the most celebrated and expensive wines in the world, yet I have rarely (including in the last three days here) tasted a Bordeaux wine that did not taste to me like licking a Band-Aid.

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we'd really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we'd have taken a taxi.

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we’d really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we’d have taken a taxi.

With two weeks left before we catch a flight from Paris to visit family and friends in the US, we left Barcelona to make a pass through Southwestern France. Our first stop was the spectacular medieval fortress town of Carcassonne. I’ve wanted to see Carcassonne since hearing my parents rave about it years ago.

This was just a two-night stay, and we spent a great deal of our time here doing some necessary travel planning. But we were also pretty immersed in the medieval ‘feel’ of the place since we stayed in a gorgeous hotel inside the walls of the hilltop fortress known as La Cité. Not only was the hotel itself fantastic, but they upgraded us to one of their best suites. With beautiful views of the castle and the ramparts of Carcassonne, our elegant living room made an ideal place to do our work and soak up the atmosphere. Next stop: Bordeaux.

The view from our living room

The view from our living room

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Our breakfast courtyard

Our breakfast courtyard

What a great week with my brother John and his family

What a great week with my brother John and his family

OK, Barcelona is generally one of my very favorite places on earth. The culture is so distinctive, the architecture is incredible, the food is great, and there are beautiful beaches right in town. But it’s been especially fun to hang out here for a week in a cool apartment with my brother John, his wife Alma, and their amazing kids Jasmine, Ava, and Nico.

There is so much to do in this incredible city, yet we’ve all been happy to balance a bit of sightseeing with a good dose of just relaxing and hanging out together. Our apartment is right smack in the middle of the city, overlooking the bustling Plaça Universitat. We only have to take a few steps to get to nice grocery stores, fun shopping, or an endless supply of places to get tapas and sip good, cheap wine. It’s a pretty good life.

We have managed to squeeze in a few excursions. Jim and I had fun taking the kids on the train down to Sitges for a nice long beach day. We had to practically drag Nico out of the water. And everyone managed to ooh and aah over the incomparable construction site that is the Sagrada Familia.

And did I mention all the great food we’ve been eating? And no matter what we order, the kids seem to love it. Mussels? Can’t get enough. Octopus? Love it! Anchovies? Love them too. It’s really been a fun week so far!

Ava and Nico check out the view over Plaça Universitat from our great apartment

Ava and Nico check out the view over Plaça Universitat from our great apartment

Jasmine fits in well with this smart, art-filled city

Jasmine fits in well with this smart, art-filled city

Looking up in wonder at the ceiling of Sagrada Familia

Looking up in wonder at the ceiling of Sagrada Familia

The construction at Sagrada Familia keeps churning out miracles

The construction at Sagrada Familia keeps churning out miracles

Jim climbs down from the Nativity towers at Sagrada Familia

Jim climbs down from the Nativity towers at Sagrada Familia

Cheese!

Cheese!

All the delicious tapas makes people very happy

All the delicious tapas makes people very happy

Beach day at Sitges!

Beach day at Sitges!

Nico could barely be dragged away from the beach

Nico could barely be dragged away from the beach

I love Spain

I love Spain