Asia

Colorful Anita & Jim on our day trip to a big Buddha-like temple

Colorful Anita & Jim on our day trip to a big Buddha-like temple

Imagine you’re in Hangzhou, you had a couple beautiful days around West Lake, but the weather is supposed to be turning pretty bad throughout the region; cold and wet. What do you do? Change plans a bit, go further afield than planned, and head to the beach!

When you say “the beach” in China, that pretty much means Hainan, an island in the South China Sea east of the Gulf of Tonkin and about the size of Belgium. The rest of the country is too far north to have great or even particularly good beaches (especially this time of year), but Hainan is sort of the Hawaii of China.

The pools of our resort with the South China Sea in the background

The pools of our resort with the South China Sea in the background

When we go to the beach, there’s usually not a lot to write about. The day is pretty much breakfast, reading at the beach or pool, lunch, reading at the beach or pool, dinner, sleep. Repeat. And for the most part that’s what we did. We’re still traveling with my brother Al and his family, and you might guess that eight-year-old Jacob and nine-year-old Sierra had no objections to hanging out in the sun and at the pool. So it was a really laid back six days.

We've experienced this before. Westerners are pretty rare in much of China and it's not unusual at all for people to stop us and ask to have their pictures taken with us. They know we're not celebrities or anything; they just don't see many people with the kind of funny eyes we have.

We’ve experienced this before. Westerners are pretty rare in much of China and it’s not unusual at all for people to stop us and ask to have their pictures taken with us. They know we’re not celebrities or anything; they just don’t see many people with the kind of funny eyes we have.

The one remarkable thing was just how bad the food was there. The place we stayed was pretty much completely isolated; there was nothing anywhere near where we were and so we ate at the resort. Limited choices, and what there was wasn’t very good. Now, Sierra & Jacob loved their PB&Js and hot dogs, so they certainly weren’t complaining. And Al was happy that such limited choices and modest quality was a great incentive to limit his intake. Otherwise, though, there’ll be no pictures of great food. None of great drinks, either. When you go to the bar and ask if they make Martinis, the bartender is supposed to know that a Martini is not just the Martini-brand vermouth.

At Anita’s instigation, we did one fun day trip outside the resort. We hired a car and went first to the Guanyin of the South Sea, a 350-foot statue of a bodhisattva (an enlightened person) on the south coast of the island. We’ve seen a lot of buddha-type stuff in our travels, but this one was pretty good: a great location on the coast and really tall. Then we went up some big hill to a really good Thai restaurant for lunch. After days at the resort with food that was mediocre at best, this was a real treat.

So that was it. A lot of time at the beach and pool, lots of chances for the kids to run around and have fun, lots of reading. From here we’re off to Chengdu, one of the fastest growing cities on earth.

Here we are with Jacob & Sierra in the temple area. Spending lots of time with them has been a real highlight of the year.

Here we are with Jacob & Sierra in the temple area. Spending lots of time with them has been a real highlight of the year.

This was our lunch stop when we broke out of the resort for a day. The food was as good as the view.

This was our lunch stop when we broke out of the resort for a day. The food was as good as the view.

Mark posing in front of cherry trees with blooming forsythia behind him. Hangzhou, and West Lake in particular, is a seriously beautiful place no matter what the weather is.

Mark posing in front of cherry trees with blooming forsythia behind him. Hangzhou, and West Lake in particular, is a seriously beautiful place no matter what the weather is.

From Shanghai it was off by high-speed train to Hangzhou. This is one of those cases where the journey is every bit a part of the entertainment; there is just something about being on a train going 150 miles an hour that is cool. They’re all over China, of course; it’s just the U.S. that doesn’t seem to be able to develop effective high-speed rail.

West Lake is beautiful in the gloom

West Lake is beautiful in the gloom

And it's beautiful in the sunshine

And it’s beautiful in the sunshine

Westerners are pretty rare in Hangzhou, and little kids in particular were often fascinated by us

Westerners are pretty rare in Hangzhou, and little kids in particular were often fascinated by us

Once we got there, thought, we discovered that Hangzhou is really a beautiful city, or at least the part of it we saw is. It’s a city of “just” 8.7 million people, making it slightly bigger than New York City, so I suppose we shouldn’t be surprised that most Americans – me included – have never really heard of it. It is, though, one of China’s primary tourist destinations, particularly for the Chinese themselves. As we walked around West Lake, the primary tourist attraction, there were almost no westerners besides us; I’m sure non-Asians made up less than one percent of the people enjoying West Lake the two days we were there. And as a result we were often the objects of much interest.

West Lake, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 for having inspired poets, artists, and scholars for over a thousand years, is the center of Hangzhou’s beauty. We had the opportunity to explore the lake on two very different days: Friday was gloomy and misty and beautiful while Saturday was clear and sunny and beautiful.

And crowded. Anyone who doubts there are a billion Chinese should go to West Lake on a beautiful spring Saturday, particularly after several days of cool rain. There might not have been a billion Chinese there, but there were a lot. And perfectly easy to understand why – it’s a stunning place. A big urban lake with beautiful landscaping and parks all around it. Even man-made causeways across the lake with willows and cherry trees and peach and plum trees, all just starting to blossom. It felt as though we were almost cheating to experience the beauty of spring in Hangzhou without having ever gone through winter. I mean, spring is supposed to be the reward for surviving winter, but for us we just dropped in at the right time. Instead, we saw – and more importantly smelled – our first lilacs of the year. Heaven.

Our last night there we went to a water show, one of those big Asian extravaganzas they like to produce on a lake or river. A cast of scores (though we saw one a couple years ago with a cast of hundreds) with lights and music and costumes on an only slightly submerged stage, acting out some great and ancient love story. I didn’t really understand it, of course, but it was beautiful and entertaining. The only down side of the evening is that for whatever reason the city is not remotely set up to get all the tourists who go to the show back to their homes or hotels afterwards; we had to walk a long way back – with kids who weren’t real keen on a long walk at 9:00 PM – before we could finally hail a cab for the rest of the journey back.

This the guy that lost his love but then got her back. That's how much of the story I understood….

This the guy that lost his love but then got her back. That’s how much of the story I understood….

So that was Hangzhou. We would have considered staying longer but the forecast was for a return to cold, damp, rainy days after the one beautiful Saturday, so we decided to get out of the cold and head south to Hainan, a big island in the South China Sea. A little beach time is always a good thing.

We guessed that the tree in the foreground was some sort of cherry tree, but we've never seen one with blossoms that shade of red

We guessed that the tree in the foreground was some sort of cherry tree, but we’ve never seen one with blossoms that shade of red

Along one of the long, artificial land bridges that span the lake. These were really beautiful walks on a great spring day.

Along one of the long, artificial land bridges that span the lake. These were really beautiful walks on a great spring day.

The city's skyline behind the lake, with one of the bridges in the distance

The city’s skyline behind the lake, with one of the bridges in the distance

Cherry trees and forsythia

Cherry trees and forsythia

More cherry trees and flowers

More cherry trees and flowers

Posing with a Chinese scholar

Posing with a Chinese scholar

Lights from the Water Show

Lights from the Water Show

Another shot

Another shot

We managed to find some really good food in Hangzhou, including this great dish of beans and … other stuff

We managed to find some really good food in Hangzhou, including this great dish of beans and … other stuff

Finally, this was the view from our hotel room. If walking around West Lake convinced us there really are over a billion Chinese, this view helped us recognize just how much cement China is pouring these days.

Finally, this was the view from our hotel room. If walking around West Lake convinced us there really are over a billion Chinese, this view helped us recognize just how much cement China is pouring these days.

The skyline of Pudong, the financial center of Shanghai. The tallest building over on the right is the Shanghai Tower, while the World Financial Center and Jin Mao Tower are the somewhat smaller buildings to the left.

The skyline of Pudong, the financial center of Shanghai. The tallest building over on the right is the Shanghai Tower, while the World Financial Center and Jin Mao Tower are the somewhat smaller buildings to the left.

From Macau we flew to Shanghai to meet my brother Al and his family: wife Anita and cute kids Sierra and Jacob. We’re going to spend two weeks with them hanging out in China, the longest visit we’ve had so far in our nearly two years of travel. We’ve observed before that far from feeling isolated from family and friends while we’re traveling the world, we sometimes see more of people than we ever would have while we were working and all in the States. This is a great example; as far as we can remember I haven’t spent two consecutive weeks with Al since 1979, and I’ve never spent much quality time with his kids. So we’re pretty excited about this chance to hang out for a while.

Sierra and Jacob enjoying a peaceful moment in People's Park

Sierra and Jacob enjoying a peaceful moment in People’s Park

Shanghai is a beautiful, reasonably rich city and it’s big; with a population of just over 24 million Shanghai is the world’s largest city according to the UN’s definition of “city proper”, excluding suburban areas. (Trivia question that I certainly wouldn’t have gotten right: What’s the world’s second largest city? Give up? Karachi, Pakistan. Who knew??)

So what do you do when you’re got three days in the world’s largest city? In part, for the rest of the St. Georges, you try to deal with jet lag. It is certainly one of the greatest advantages of the way Mark & I are traveling that we rarely experience jet lag, as we almost never cross more than one time zone in a day. Beyond that, though, we walked around a lot, enjoying the early spring climate and admiring the beautiful skyline of Pudong, the section of the city across the Huangpu River. The skyline of Pudong includes three pretty remarkable buildings: the Jin Mao Tower, a beautiful 88-story building that, when we stayed at the Hyatt in it eight years ago was the tallest building in China; the Shanghai World Financial Center, a 101-story building that was the second-tallest building in the world when it was finished in 2007; and the 128-story Shanghai Tower, now the second-tallest building in the world.

Me and my "little" brother Al, his wife Anita, and Jacob & Sierra

Me and my “little” brother Al, his wife Anita, and Jacob & Sierra

Then, when the kids were a little tired of Mark & Jim’s forced march across the city we did a tour of the city on the local “Hop On, Hop Off” bus, a great way to see more of the city quickly. The highlight, though, was the amusement park in People’s Park in central Shanghai. It was a pretty small little diversion, but I guess if you’re eight or nine years old – or, in the case of Mark somewhat older than that – even a small amusement park is a heckuva lot of fun. And if you’re a child-deprived adult, watching them might be even more fun than they had.

So that was Stop One on the tour of China. A lot more to come….

Someone sure enjoyed the amusement park

Someone sure enjoyed the amusement park

Walking through the park I saw this garden of pansies and yelled to Al "Hey, get a picture of these pansies!" and then posed with Mark. He was less amused by my humor than I was.

Walking through the park I saw this garden of pansies and yelled to Al “Hey, get a picture of these pansies!” and then posed with Mark. He was less amused by my humor than I was.

And here was a random woman practicing her Tai Chi in front of a Dunkin' Donuts. There are a LOT of Dunkin' Donuts in Boston, but I've never seen that.

And here was a random woman practicing her Tai Chi in front of a Dunkin’ Donuts. There are a LOT of Dunkin’ Donuts in Boston, but I’ve never seen that.

Such cute kids!

Such cute kids!

Jacob admiring the view of Pudong

Jacob admiring the view of Pudong

Uncle Mark with the kids

Uncle Mark with the kids

And finally, a modern Chinese version a Cobb Salad. It was pretty great.

And finally, a modern Chinese version a Cobb Salad. It was pretty great.