Asia

Boarding the Trans Siberian Railroad in Beijing

Boarding the Trans Siberian Railroad in Beijing

We survived the first 30 hour leg of our journey on the Trans Siberian railway, arriving in the Mongolian capital early this afternoon.  The train was plenty sociable as we mingled in the halls and shared meals and drinks with fellow passengers from Canada, the Netherlands, Hong Kong, Germany, and Australia.  The biggest contingent we met was from Australia, and most of them were pretty serious partiers. Incidentally, we did not meet any other Americans.

Food shopping during a stop at Datong, China

Food shopping during a stop at Datong, China

While we were still in China the dining car served Chinese food, which disappointed everyone. We’d had great food in China, but the train food was strangely colorless and bland. They just plopped some dull food and a bowl of rice in front of us, and that was it. Our guidebook (Lonely Planet’s Trans-Siberian Railway) said the Chinese dining car had the best food, and since everyone we met had the same guidebook, we all dreaded what was to come.

Winding through the Mongolian steppe

Winding through the Mongolian steppe

Every few hours the train stopped at stations along the way, and we’d have 10 or 20 minutes to step off, stretch our legs, and check out the food carts lined along the platform. At one stop in China we stocked up on ramen noodles and beverages. Since there is always boiling water available on the train we were now prepared to deal with the disappointment of the food car.

The very popular Mongolian dining car

The very popular Mongolian dining car

The Mongolian border crossing was a five-hour affair lasting from 8:15 pm until 1:40 am.  We had to go through Chinese emigration and Mongolian immigration and customs, naturally.  Engineers removed the wheel assemblies under all the train cars and replaced them with wheels for the wider gauge  tracks used in Mongolia and Russia. They also added more sleeper cars and switched out the Chinese dining car for a Mongolian one. When this ordeal was finished most everyone settled into their beds, and I know I slept like a baby until morning.

We woke up to the sun rising over the Mongolian steppe, a stark but beautiful landscape of gently rolling grassy plains. But all the buzz in the hallways was about the new Mongolian dining car. It featured elaborately carved wooden paneling, a big menu to choose from, and super tasty food. Major improvement!

 

 

It’s early on Wednesday morning, and we are getting ready for our 8:10 a.m. train to Mongolia. This is where our adventure really begins — with the 30-hour ride on the Trans Siberian Railway from Beijing to Ulan Bator.

Crap. More than 30 hours without Internet? Quite possibly without even plugs to charge devices? What will we do?

I’m guessing there will be a lot of reading (Kindle charge lasts forever!) and card playing (totally analog). I think exploring the trains and exploring platforms during stops could be pretty cool. And I hope we’ll meet interesting travelers along the way.

Signing off, here goes!

After a week in Beijing, we’re ready to hit the road.  We’ve stayed in a nice hotel (Mark got a great deal on Expedia) and it’s been relaxing.  Tomorrow morning, though, we’ll be on a train to Mongolia.  That will definitely feel like we’re on an adventure; Mongolia is not the kind of place you go on a two week vacation.  It’s a 30-hour train ride, and then we’re planning on spending five days there – three in Ulan Bator, the capital, and two nights out in a gur, the Mongolian equivalent of a yurt.

Before leaving, though, some random thoughts on Beijing:

  • The traffic!  It’s not just that there are so many cars, but this is one city that is really not friendly to pedestrians.  You can be in the crosswalk with a walk sign, and cars will cut you off without a second thought.  I’ve seen little old ladies struggling to get across the street and drivers don’t give them an inch.

    Lunch in the alley

    Lunch in the alley

  • Go one direction from our hotel and in a couple blocks you can go into a Gap or Apple store. Go the other direction and in a couple blocks you’re at a Rolls Royce dealership, followed by a Maserati/Ferrari dealer and a Mercedes and a BMW and not long after that an Aston Martin dealer.  Mao’s face may be plastered all over the city, but this is not his China anymore.  Still, for all those changes, it’s still the case that the best food you can get is in the alleys – the “hutongs” of Beijing.  Yesterday we had breakfast for $3 and lunch for $13.  Today’s breakfast was just under $2.  We loved it, and we haven’t gotten sick (yet)!

    Hutong breakfast kitchen ... and dining room

    Hutong breakfast kitchen … and dining room

  • Sure, there are a lot of young people in Beijing, but there are a lot of old people, too, weathered faces and failing bodies.  And when you think of what they’ve seen.  Someone just my father’s age would have experienced Chiang Kaishek, the Rape of Nanjing, Mao’s victory in the civil war, the Great Leap Forward, the Cultural Revolution, Nixon’s visit, Deng Xiaoping’s rise and fall and rise and fall and final rise to the top, the return of Hong Kong, and now decades of economic growth that western economist said couldn’t be sustained.  Actually, they still say it can’t be sustained.  Presumably if you say it long enough, eventually you’ll be right.
  • While Mark didn’t mention it in his post below, Lefty loved the Great Wall.  After literally centuries of his … people? … carrying supplies to support the troops on the wall, he was quite pleased to be carried up there in style.

    Lefty on the Great Wall

    Lefty on the Great Wall

All in all a great visit.  It turns out you there’s a lot to see in Beijing, and lots we didn’t get to do.  And this is just one city – imagine what you could do if you had years to travel the world and could come back to spend months here.  Hmmm…