What a difference a dozen years can make. Mark and I were in Cambodia 12 years ago and came up to Siem Reap to see Angkor Wat, the 12th century Buddhist temple (originally built as a Hindu temple, but later converted to Buddhism) that to this day is the largest religious monument in the world. At the time Cambodia was still emerging from decades of war, both civil and with Vietnam. At the time it was a dusty backpacker haven and while we had heard about the growth over these years, we’ve been blown away by the change. Quite honestly, even looking at pictures of the town back then, we don’t see anything recognizable.
And quite unlike what we experienced back then, there are a number of very classy hotels – a Park Hyatt just opened, while the Aman resort goes for just over $1,000 a night – and nice looking bars. We stopped in one the first night and discovered two important items: the bartender made a very respectable Perfect Manhattan, and it was a gay bar. Who’d have expected either in Cambodia?
One other change that surprised us: the 900-year old temples have changed. In the years since we were last here a number of countries have undertaken projects to restore various sites – in our brief visit we saw projects currently underway sponsored by Japan and India – and we saw noticeable changes. As you walk by these mounds of old stones waiting to get put back up you just wonder, “How do they even know where to start?”
And then it was off to dinner and a drag show. In Siem Reap.
We traveled from Battambang to Siem Reap on a boat, with amazing views of river life in Cambodia
Everyone is on a boat, young …
… and old alike
Traveling monks staying out of the sun
One of countless homes along the river
Our boat from the roof deck, where Mark & I spent most of the six-hour trip
We got up at 4:15 AM to get to Angkor Wat for sunrise. After touring the site we biked for a few hours around other temples in the area
Three towers at the main site
The Government of India is sponsoring a project to restore this temple area. When we were here 12 years ago it was significantly more overgrown than it is now.
The modern way of paying homage at a temple – taking a photo
Posing with a rocky face watching. And no, I’m not at a conference; that thing around my neck is the photo ID they give you when you pay the entrance fee.
From the sacred to the profane – a drag show in Siem Reap
One more beauty
What great images. You give such a vivid description with your words and photos. Thanks guys!
We miss you already. When are you coming to Asia?
Hello Fellow Travelers!
Mark- It was great talking to you on the boat from Battambang and I’m happy to see sunrise at Angkor Wat vicariously through you. We spent two days seeing the temples and are now prepping for our next move. Looks like we’re headed to Kratie, then further east for some hiking before heading to Saigon and working our way up through Vietnam. Perhaps we’ll see you along the way 🙂
Let’s keep in touch!
Maria